美容产业的最大问题：美了自己，丑了环境
尽管时尚产业的阴暗面已经在全世界范围内引起了热议，但它并不是如今唯一因对环境有害而面临严格审查的产业。重度依赖塑料、制作标准不透明的美容产业，就是全球污染的另一大“祸首”。
自从1950年塑料产量飙升以来，全球只有9%的塑料得到了回收。每年生产用于美容产业的塑料包装超过1200亿个，不仅绝大多数的个人护理和美容产品最终都被扔进了垃圾填埋场，而且那些微塑料——直径小于5毫米的塑料碎片——在海洋（准确来说，高达1400万吨）、饮用水和食物中几乎无处不在。
联合利华和欧莱雅等全球性个人护理企业集团认为，有必要彻底更换产品包装以解决这一问题，并签署了“美国塑料公约”。这是一项致力于将政府机构、非政府组织和各品牌纳入艾伦·麦克阿瑟基金会创建的全球塑料公约网络之中的环保倡议项目。根据项目目标，截至2025年，欧莱雅集团将努力确保其塑料包装100%可重复使用、可回收或可堆肥，并承诺将采取行动有效回收或堆肥50%的塑料包装。
问题在于：国际消除持久性有机污染物网络（IPEN）本月公开的两项最新研究结果表明，只关注塑料垃圾不够，还要关注其背后更广泛的后果。据研究，塑料含“有毒化学添加剂和污染物，对人类和环境构成多重健康威胁。在健康方面，可能会引发癌症、改变荷尔蒙活动（即内分泌紊乱）。内分泌紊乱则会导致生殖、生长或认知障碍。”最关键的是，因含有化学添加剂，所以塑料并不适合重复利用，这也使得塑料循环经济的概念彻底沦为空谈。
大型企业纷纷开始重新考量已根深蒂固的生产模式，IPEN之类的组织也正致力于敦促化工及塑料制造商停止使用有毒添加剂，在此环境下，规模较小、灵活性较高、坚持可持续发展、遵守道德标准的品牌反而能够先行一步。
举个例子：刚成立4年的法国美妆品牌La Bouche Rouge，无论是其配方还是包装，都不含石化衍生物、硅酮和微塑料。该品牌不使用动物实验，起初只生产口红，后来又逐步推出了睫毛膏、眼线、眼影和配饰，均为可替换包装。包装材料为回收再利用的金属和法国著名制革厂Tanneries du Puy再加工的皮革，或是斯特拉·麦卡特尼用回收的纤维材料做的人造皮革制成。
有了第一个孩子后，创始人尼古拉斯·格里耶就萌生出了自创品牌的想法。在准备重返工作岗位的时候，他对自己工作的正确性产生了怀疑。之前的许多年里，他在欧莱雅集团努力工作，努力往上爬，可突然间，这份工作就失去了意义。“虽然对当时的我来说非常显而易见，但其实不只是可持续性的问题。重点是意义和价值；我觉得那份工作完全不具有意义和价值。”
格里耶明白，这是一个重大的决定。首先，他还是想去真正地感受所谓的“绿色美妆”。他果断辞去伦敦欧莱雅集团稳定且高薪的工作，加入了法国植物护发先锋企业Phyto。可没过多久他就发现，虽然该品牌的配方确实绿色环保，但其生产过程和供应链却并非如此。
格里耶同意帮助快时尚服装品牌Kookai向绿色成衣品牌转型，对意义的探索仍在继续。“我觉得那是个有趣的尝试。但在我参与项目的一年半时间里，它的母公司破产了，所以计划都夭折在了襁褓之中。”他解释说，“我希望自己的价值观能与职业生活同向而行，但这似乎并不是能与社会兼容的模式。”
换句话说，格里耶想要创造一个属于自己的项目，一个能够坚决捍卫其道德标准的项目。在建立La Bouche Rouge的过程中，响起了一阵跨越国际的警铃：中国开始拒绝接收西方的垃圾，十万火急之下，塑料问题终于引发了公众的热议。格里耶十分了解美妆业务，并决定以此为突破口。
格里耶选择从口红开始：“我们每年都要扔掉10亿支口红，还有4亿个一次性硅胶模具。用模具只是为了在口红膏体上印上品牌标示，用过一次就会出现磨损。这些都是不能回收的东西。”
口红的市场发展前景极好，而且它也是一种关注度极高的大众奢侈品，在社交媒体上尤其明显。凭借着有力的宣言、独特的外观和官网上详细列出的黑名单成分，La Bouche Rouge一炮而红，成为了法国首个环保奢侈品品牌。作为明星产品，这款口红的售价为45美元（皮质外壳单卖，售价80美元），确实比普通口红贵，但和迪奥、纪梵希等在世界各地化妆品专柜称王称霸的高档品牌相比，还是比较合算的，而且还更环保。格里耶说：“我想打造出更适合21世纪需求的追求风向。”
也就是说，口红的成分均需采用无污染加工的方式。该品牌建立了专用实验室，使用精华配方，富含从法国圣叙利阿克人工采集的抗衰老海藻，无动物成分（不含蜂蜡）。格里耶说：“我们用了两年时间做研发。随着涂抹时间的延长，常规口红中含有的各种成分就会对嘴唇造成伤害，所以我想研发出一种‘治愈系’口红。布列塔尼的海藻具有修复效果，且在含量很高的情况下，也不会导致口红变形。”不仅如此，个性化刻字和饰样也是该品牌的独特优势。
因为在塑料和无毒成分方面的强硬态度，格里耶顺理成章地成为了“蓝色之美”运动的有力拥护者。这项新运动呼吁在成分选择、生产、包装和分销过程均使用无毒产品，以减轻对人类健康的危害和对海洋的影响。
捍卫这一立场，就意味着把很多推广机会拦在了门外。四年前，来自中国SKP的买手找上门来，提出要将La Bouche Rouge引入中国市场。他没有答应。他回忆说：“他们要求进行动物试验。而我不会改变品牌形象，也不会违背自己的价值观。”三年后，买手们再次与他联系，并取消了试验要求，La Bouche Rouge及其负责任的法式优雅形象将直接成为SKP的一员。“我的态度好像让他们很惊讶。”格里耶表示，“应该很少会有人对他们的动物试验政策说‘不’。”
虽然，解决全球塑料危机可能没有灵丹妙药，但格里耶坚持认为，各品牌应该行动起来，为实现这一目标而努力：“不只是和口红或睫毛膏有关。我们要问问自己，怎样才能在保证自身发展的情况下，让消费者的日常生活变得更美好。”
译者：殷圆圆
尽管时尚产业的阴暗面已经在全世界范围内引起了热议，但它并不是如今唯一因对环境有害而面临严格审查的产业。重度依赖塑料、制作标准不透明的美容产业，就是全球污染的另一大“祸首”。
自从1950年塑料产量飙升以来，全球只有9%的塑料得到了回收。每年生产用于美容产业的塑料包装超过1200亿个，不仅绝大多数的个人护理和美容产品最终都被扔进了垃圾填埋场，而且那些微塑料——直径小于5毫米的塑料碎片——在海洋（准确来说，高达1400万吨）、饮用水和食物中几乎无处不在。
联合利华和欧莱雅等全球性个人护理企业集团认为，有必要彻底更换产品包装以解决这一问题，并签署了“美国塑料公约”。这是一项致力于将政府机构、非政府组织和各品牌纳入艾伦·麦克阿瑟基金会创建的全球塑料公约网络之中的环保倡议项目。根据项目目标，截至2025年，欧莱雅集团将努力确保其塑料包装100%可重复使用、可回收或可堆肥，并承诺将采取行动有效回收或堆肥50%的塑料包装。
问题在于：国际消除持久性有机污染物网络（IPEN）本月公开的两项最新研究结果表明，只关注塑料垃圾不够，还要关注其背后更广泛的后果。据研究，塑料含“有毒化学添加剂和污染物，对人类和环境构成多重健康威胁。在健康方面，可能会引发癌症、改变荷尔蒙活动（即内分泌紊乱）。内分泌紊乱则会导致生殖、生长或认知障碍。”最关键的是，因含有化学添加剂，所以塑料并不适合重复利用，这也使得塑料循环经济的概念彻底沦为空谈。
大型企业纷纷开始重新考量已根深蒂固的生产模式，IPEN之类的组织也正致力于敦促化工及塑料制造商停止使用有毒添加剂，在此环境下，规模较小、灵活性较高、坚持可持续发展、遵守道德标准的品牌反而能够先行一步。
举个例子：刚成立4年的法国美妆品牌La Bouche Rouge，无论是其配方还是包装，都不含石化衍生物、硅酮和微塑料。该品牌不使用动物实验，起初只生产口红，后来又逐步推出了睫毛膏、眼线、眼影和配饰，均为可替换包装。包装材料为回收再利用的金属和法国著名制革厂Tanneries du Puy再加工的皮革，或是斯特拉·麦卡特尼用回收的纤维材料做的人造皮革制成。
有了第一个孩子后，创始人尼古拉斯·格里耶就萌生出了自创品牌的想法。在准备重返工作岗位的时候，他对自己工作的正确性产生了怀疑。之前的许多年里，他在欧莱雅集团努力工作，努力往上爬，可突然间，这份工作就失去了意义。“虽然对当时的我来说非常显而易见，但其实不只是可持续性的问题。重点是意义和价值；我觉得那份工作完全不具有意义和价值。”
格里耶明白，这是一个重大的决定。首先，他还是想去真正地感受所谓的“绿色美妆”。他果断辞去伦敦欧莱雅集团稳定且高薪的工作，加入了法国植物护发先锋企业Phyto。可没过多久他就发现，虽然该品牌的配方确实绿色环保，但其生产过程和供应链却并非如此。
格里耶同意帮助快时尚服装品牌Kookai向绿色成衣品牌转型，对意义的探索仍在继续。“我觉得那是个有趣的尝试。但在我参与项目的一年半时间里，它的母公司破产了，所以计划都夭折在了襁褓之中。”他解释说，“我希望自己的价值观能与职业生活同向而行，但这似乎并不是能与社会兼容的模式。”
换句话说，格里耶想要创造一个属于自己的项目，一个能够坚决捍卫其道德标准的项目。在建立La Bouche Rouge的过程中，响起了一阵跨越国际的警铃：中国开始拒绝接收西方的垃圾，十万火急之下，塑料问题终于引发了公众的热议。格里耶十分了解美妆业务，并决定以此为突破口。
格里耶选择从口红开始：“我们每年都要扔掉10亿支口红，还有4亿个一次性硅胶模具。用模具只是为了在口红膏体上印上品牌标示，用过一次就会出现磨损。这些都是不能回收的东西。”
口红的市场发展前景极好，而且它也是一种关注度极高的大众奢侈品，在社交媒体上尤其明显。凭借着有力的宣言、独特的外观和官网上详细列出的黑名单成分，La Bouche Rouge一炮而红，成为了法国首个环保奢侈品品牌。作为明星产品，这款口红的售价为45美元（皮质外壳单卖，售价80美元），确实比普通口红贵，但和迪奥、纪梵希等在世界各地化妆品专柜称王称霸的高档品牌相比，还是比较合算的，而且还更环保。格里耶说：“我想打造出更适合21世纪需求的追求风向。”
也就是说，口红的成分均需采用无污染加工的方式。该品牌建立了专用实验室，使用精华配方，富含从法国圣叙利阿克人工采集的抗衰老海藻，无动物成分（不含蜂蜡）。格里耶说：“我们用了两年时间做研发。随着涂抹时间的延长，常规口红中含有的各种成分就会对嘴唇造成伤害，所以我想研发出一种‘治愈系’口红。布列塔尼的海藻具有修复效果，且在含量很高的情况下，也不会导致口红变形。”不仅如此，个性化刻字和饰样也是该品牌的独特优势。
因为在塑料和无毒成分方面的强硬态度，格里耶顺理成章地成为了“蓝色之美”运动的有力拥护者。这项新运动呼吁在成分选择、生产、包装和分销过程均使用无毒产品，以减轻对人类健康的危害和对海洋的影响。
捍卫这一立场，就意味着把很多推广机会拦在了门外。四年前，来自中国SKP的买手找上门来，提出要将La Bouche Rouge引入中国市场。他没有答应。他回忆说：“他们要求进行动物试验。而我不会改变品牌形象，也不会违背自己的价值观。”三年后，买手们再次与他联系，并取消了试验要求，La Bouche Rouge及其负责任的法式优雅形象将直接成为SKP的一员。“我的态度好像让他们很惊讶。”格里耶表示，“应该很少会有人对他们的动物试验政策说‘不’。”
虽然，解决全球塑料危机可能没有灵丹妙药，但格里耶坚持认为，各品牌应该行动起来，为实现这一目标而努力：“不只是和口红或睫毛膏有关。我们要问问自己，怎样才能在保证自身发展的情况下，让消费者的日常生活变得更美好。”
译者：殷圆圆
As much as the world talks about the dark side of fashion, it isn’t the only industry facing intense scrutiny over its harmful impact on the environment today. The beauty business, with its heavy reliance on plastics and murky transparency practices, is another global polluter.
Since 1950, the beginning of large-scale plastic production, only 9% of the world’s plastic has been recycled. With an industry that generates more than 120 billion units of packaging every year, not only do most personal care and beauty products end up in landfills, their microplastics—fragments which break down into pieces smaller than five millimeters in diameter—are clogging up our oceans (14 million tons to be precise), our drinking water, and our food supply.
Some global personal care conglomerates such as Unilever and L’Oréal know they need to overhaul their packaging design to be part of the solution and have joined the U.S. Plastics Pact, a collaborative effort bringing together government agencies, NGOs, and brands within the Ellen MacArthur Foundation global Plastics Pact network. As part of the pact, the L’Oréal Group is working toward a 2025 goal of making all of its plastic packaging 100% reusable, recyclable, or compostable and committing to recycling or composting 50% of plastic packaging, among other objectives.
But here’s the rub: Two new studies published this month by the International Pollutants Elimination Network (IPEN) demonstrate that it’s not enough to focus on the waste created by plastics but their broader consequences. The studies reveal “the presence of toxic chemical additives and pollutants that pose multiple health threats to humans and the environment. The health effects include causing cancer or changing hormone activity (known as endocrine disruption), which can lead to reproductive, growth, and cognitive impairment.” What’s more, the chemical additives in plastics make them unfit for reuse, turning the idea of a circular economy for plastics into little more than an empty promise.
While big companies scramble to rethink their deeply embedded production models and organizations such as IPEN push chemical and plastics manufacturers to ban the use of toxic additives, smaller, more nimble brands designed to be sustainable and ethical have a chance to lead the way forward.
One such promising example is La Bouche Rouge, a four-year-old French makeup line that is free of petrochemical derivatives, silicones, and microplastics both in its formula and packaging. The cruelty-free line, which began with a single lipstick and expanded to include mascara, liners, eyeshadow, and accessories, come in refillable cases made from recycled metal and either upcycled leather from France’s renowned Tanneries du Puy or a vegan leather made from a recycled fiber material created by Stella McCartney.
The genesis of the idea came gradually to founder Nicolas Gerlier after having his first child and feeling overcome with self-doubt about his profession as he prepared to return to work. He had spent the bulk of his career rising up the ladder at L’Oréal until suddenly, the work no longer made sense. “It wasn’t just a question of sustainability, although that was certainly an obvious issue to me then. It was about meaning and values; it felt like what I was doing was completely devoid of it.”
Gerlier knew he’d have to make a big move, but first wanted to get “green beauty” experience. He turned down the stability and high salary of a job with L’Oréal in London to head up Phyto, France’s pioneering vegetal hair care brand but quickly discovered that while it was honorably green in its formula, its production and supply chain were not.
The search for meaning continued when Gerlier agreed to help transform Kookai from fast-fashion to green ready-to-wear. “I thought it would be an interesting opportunity. But in the year and a half I worked on the project, the holding company went belly up, and everything ended without launching,” he explained. “I wanted to align my personal values with my professional life, but society didn’t seem set up to accommodate that.”
In other words, Gerlier needed to create a project of his own with an ethical foundation he could defend through and through. His journey to create La Bouche Rouge coincided with a global wake-up call: China had begun refusing the West’s waste, and plastics were finally being discussed with greater urgency. Well-versed in the cosmetics business, Gerlier knew that’s where there was room to focus his attention.
“One billion tubes of lipstick are thrown out every year as well as 400 million single-use silicone molds used to print a logo on a stick that will wear off after application. These are all things that can’t be recycled,” Gerlier said of his decision to begin with lipstick.
It also happens to be part of an ever-growing market and an extremely visible everyday luxury, particularly on social media. With a strong manifesto, striking images, and a detailed list on its website of blacklisted ingredients, La Bouche Rouge was able to make a big splash, quickly positioning itself as France’s first eco-responsible luxury line. At $45 for the lipstick (plus $80 for the leather tube), the star product is certainly more expensive than mass-market lipsticks, but less expensive than the premium labels that dominate beauty counters around the world, from Dior to Givenchy—with the added benefit of being safe for the environment. “The idea was to re-create a desire that’s fit for the 21st century,” Gerlier said.
That also means the composition of the lipsticks needed a clean treatment. Produced in the brand’s dedicated lab, the lipsticks are, in fact, serum formulas, enriched with an antiaging seaweed harvested by hand in St. Suliac, France, and completely vegan (no beeswax). “It took us two years to develop. Lipsticks are full of things that can damage the lips over time, so I wanted a treatment-style product. The seaweed from Brittany is repairing and very rich without deforming the stick,” said Gerlier. Something else clients can’t get from the competitors: made-to-measure shades with a personalized name and finish.
With his hard-line stance on plastics and toxic-free ingredients, Gerlier has become a vocal champion of blue beauty, a newer movement that promotes nontoxic products both in composition, production, packaging, and distribution to limit the danger to human health and the impact on our oceans.
Defending this position has also meant potentially turning down handsome distribution opportunities. Four years ago, buyers from China’s SKP came to meet Gerlier and offered him a chance to enter the Chinese market with La Bouche Rouge. He turned them down. “They required animal testing. I wasn’t going to change the face of the brand and go against my values,” he recalled. Three years later, the buyers returned and lifted the testing requirement so that La Bouche Rouge, and its responsible vision of elegance à la française, could be added to the mix at SKP. “I seemed to have surprised them!” Gerlier noted. “I guess few have tried to go against their animal testing policies.”
While there may be no silver bullet to solving the world’s plastic crisis, Gerlier insists that it’s up to brands to do what it takes to be part of the solution: “It’s not just about lipstick or mascara. It’s about asking ourselves how we can make everyday life a little bit brighter for consumers without destroying our own future.”
