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疫情能让人戒掉购物瘾吗?

疫情能让人戒掉购物瘾吗?

 J.B. MacKinnon 2021-07-07
疫情过后,很多美国人不会像从前那样无节制地消费了。

2006年的“黑色星期五”,纽约一家玩具店里的购物者。图片来源:Stephen Chernin—Getty Images

不管什么时候,消费问题都是一个敏感问题。在经济繁荣的时期,总会有人告诉我们,如果人们对各种商品、服务和体验的需求下降了,经济就会由盛转衰。而等到经济真的衰退了,又有人会说,拯救经济的办法,就是大家都到商场和商店里去消费。

现在,我们终于从疫情最黑暗的时期走了出来,而社会上也同样充斥着“消费救经济”的论调,有人甚至鼓吹疫情后必然会迎来“报复性消费”。似乎有一只看不见的手正在发挥作用,好让这些声音被大家听到。一方面是广告支出在激增,另一方面是政府大肆“撒币”,与此同时,很多主打生活方式的媒体也在提醒大家,是时候再次追逐潮流了。

像以前一样,这一次也有人让我们不要讨论消费主义的阴暗面。但如果这次我们真的屈从于他们,就会失去一个重要的机会。经过这次疫情,亿万消费者刚刚在人生观、价值观上有了新的认识,更重要的是,疫情让很多人看到了消费型社会以外的生活会是什么样子的。除了现在,哪里还会有更好的时机,来解决我们的过度消费给全人类乃至给整个地球带来的危害?

首先,我们可以回想一下2019年年底新冠病毒出现之前的情况。在2019年初,联合国的一份报告就曾指出,在世纪之交的某个时候,消费主义已经超过全球人口增长,成为了危害环境的头号罪魁祸首。也就是说,在气候变化、物种灭绝、有毒污染和水资源保护等问题上,我们消费了多少,比地球上有多少人更重要。

有这样一个残酷的事实:一个富裕国家的普通人,他日常消耗的石油、钢铁、木材、水、煤等资源是一个穷国普通老百姓的13倍。也就是说,如果你在美国养育两个孩子,所消耗的自然资源相当于在孟加拉国、海地或赞比亚这样的国家养育26个孩子。我曾经去过很多地方(我也是一个过度消费者),但我还没有在地球上的任何地方遇到过这样庞大的一个家族。

虽然疫情期间,由于封城等因素,全球消费有所放缓,但是现在,我们的消费速度再一次以极快的速度回升。不管我们怎样用所谓的“绿色”去粉饰我们的消费欲望,也都无法跟上它增长的速度。我们在很多地方都禁用了塑料袋和塑料吸管,但与此同时,未来10年的塑料总产量肯定会上涨40%左右。虽然“环保时尚”已经成了一种时髦趋势,但过去20年间,人均购买的服装数量增加了60%,而这些服装的寿命却缩短了近一半。而在循环经济体系中,废弃产品被循环成新产品的比例实际上还在减少。被投入全球经济中的原材料数量比以往任何时候都要多。

美国人的人均消费水平更是冠绝全球。如果全世界所有人都按美国人的标准去去消费,那至少得有5个地球才能维持所有人这样的生活水平。一个叫世界资源研究所的非营利机构称,我们的消费总量问题已经成了“房子里的大象”——大家都能看见它的严重性和危险性,却都又有意无意地忽略它。气候变化问题就是一个突出的例子。过去20年间,对于气候变化问题,虽然社会高度关注,高层行动不断,技术也有所进步,但到了2019年,我们达到的最好成绩,无非是修了一些自行车道,发明了一些节能灯泡和电器,用燃烧起来更清洁一些的天然气取代了煤炭来发电,希望靠这些就能降低全球排放——而从10年代中期开始,全球排放就处于创纪录的高水平。但随着消费主义在全球的盛行,一方面是印度的中产阶层快速崛起,一方面是美国人兴起了豪宅热,全球排放再次开始打破纪录。到目前为止,在现代史上,全球温室气体排放量真正下降的时候,就只有经济发生重大衰退的时候——换句话说,也就是所有人停止消费的时候。

消费越少天越蓝

几乎就从疫情导致各国相继“封城”“封国”的那一刻起,少消费的力量就开始显现出来。消费主义文化遭到迎头痛击,而几乎就在同一时刻,全球碳排放出现了有史以来最大幅度的下降,2020年上半年的降幅几乎达到9%。仅仅几天时间,亚洲一些高度污染的工业重镇就重现了久违的蓝天。而随着全球经济的萎缩,我们也比以往更依赖于现有的可再生能源。在世界各地,都出现了一些肉眼可见的大自然收复失地的迹象。我个人最喜欢的画面,就是一群美洲鳄在墨西哥的海滩上晒太阳的照片。这片海滩正是由于没有了以往的大量游客,才又重新成为美洲鳄的乐园。

疫情不光改变了环境,也改变了我们。不论是在隔离的相对平静中,还是在焦虑与悲伤中,世界各地的人都在思考,人生最重要的究竟是什么,人的舒适与满足究竟来自何处。我猜想,在经历了这次疫情之后,与购物相比,大家可能更想时间陪伴他们在乎的人。很多人学会了享受大自然,学会了创造性地表达自己,或者学会了关注自身以外的问题。

美国历史学家、极简主义学者大卫•史曾把那种安排得极为精致饱满的小资生活称为“活动的监狱”。而逃离了“活动的监狱”之后,人们才认识到了自己在消费文化中真正看重什么,有哪些东西就算没有也能活。很多人重新发现了低消费的乐趣,比如园艺、烘焙和谈话的艺术。有的人不再为穿什么衣服烦心,也没有了与其他人攀比的压力,从而真正感到了自由。

我们已经不是疫情前的我们了。要指望大家忘掉这些变化,像以前那样无节制地消费,那简直是在污辱我们。我们之所以挺过了这场灾难,靠的不是消费,靠的是我们自己,和我们在社会中找到的资源,在“911”事件后,小布什曾号召美国人“购物救国”,这个主意当时不靠谱,现在也同样不靠谱。6月份亚马逊迎来了自己的会员日,这完全是一个亚马逊为了促进网购而自创的一个所谓“购物节”。而今年,我们也看到这个“购物节”在社交媒体上遭到了越来越多的抵制和主流的批评。

另一方面,我们对“简单生活”的讨论仍然太过肤浅。现在“少即是多”和“简单生活”这种口号已经成了流行语,而且疫情以来,由于很多人失业,加上大量企业倒闭,很多人开始给生活作减法。虽然作为个人,我们有充分的理由减少消费(既是为了省钱,也是为了环保,或者是为了追求更深的价值),但如果我们真想实现一个“低消费”的社会,我们就需要改变这个体系本身。

质重于量

比方说,我们怎么才能避免买那些一用就坏、一出来就过时或者需要升级的产品?有一种方法,就是“少买,买精”,也就是少买一些东西,买能用得更久的东西。为实现这个目标,我们可以鼓励消费者为高质量产品支付溢价,尽管这种方法在以前并不奏效。

更好的办法,是采取有力措施,帮助耐用品与一次性产品进行竞争。比如我们可以让企业为其生产过程中造成的污染支付更高的治理成本,包括大气污染成本等等——这些成本目前基本上还是由社会承担的。我们可以通过制定法律,要求产品必须易于修理,或者要求产品必须贴上寿命标签,以提醒我们它们可以使用多久。有意思的是,一些企业看到了疫情期间的消费下降给环境带来的好处,所以他们也转向了让消费者少买新产品的商业模式。比如最近,李维斯(Levi Strauss)公司就在其官网上发文称:“服装行业面临着一场过度消费的危机。”说明这个大品牌已经公开承认了这个问题。该公司推出了一个较为温和的低消费主义口号:“买得更好,穿得更久。”另外它也将销售更多的二手产品。

另一个策略是解决收入不平等的问题。研究表明,贫富差距的扩大会放大社会地位的差距,而为了追求社会上的尊严感和地位感,我们就会花更多的钱去消费,从而助长了消费主义。同时随着不安全感的增加,我们也会更加关注收入和财产问题。收入的不平等并非是一个不能改变的问题,我们知道有一些方法是可以更平均地分配财富的。

采取这样的策略后,未来我们有可能进入一个更注重产品、服务和体验的质量而非数量的时代。这样的时代仍然会保持疫情中的某些优点——比如更干净的空气和水,更少的拜金主义价值观,人与自然更和谐的关系等等。要达到这个目标,我们不能指望个人消费者的自觉,而是要靠建立一个新的世界。而要实现这个目标的第一步,就是大家都开始来讨论它。(财富中文网)

本文作者J.B. MacKinnon是新书《世界停止购物之日》的作者。本文是为Zócalo Public Square公司撰写的。

译者:朴成奎

不管什么时候,消费问题都是一个敏感问题。在经济繁荣的时期,总会有人告诉我们,如果人们对各种商品、服务和体验的需求下降了,经济就会由盛转衰。而等到经济真的衰退了,又有人会说,拯救经济的办法,就是大家都到商场和商店里去消费。

现在,我们终于从疫情最黑暗的时期走了出来,而社会上也同样充斥着“消费救经济”的论调,有人甚至鼓吹疫情后必然会迎来“报复性消费”。似乎有一只看不见的手正在发挥作用,好让这些声音被大家听到。一方面是广告支出在激增,另一方面是政府大肆“撒币”,与此同时,很多主打生活方式的媒体也在提醒大家,是时候再次追逐潮流了。

像以前一样,这一次也有人让我们不要讨论消费主义的阴暗面。但如果这次我们真的屈从于他们,就会失去一个重要的机会。经过这次疫情,亿万消费者刚刚在人生观、价值观上有了新的认识,更重要的是,疫情让很多人看到了消费型社会以外的生活会是什么样子的。除了现在,哪里还会有更好的时机,来解决我们的过度消费给全人类乃至给整个地球带来的危害?

首先,我们可以回想一下2019年年底新冠病毒出现之前的情况。在2019年初,联合国的一份报告就曾指出,在世纪之交的某个时候,消费主义已经超过全球人口增长,成为了危害环境的头号罪魁祸首。也就是说,在气候变化、物种灭绝、有毒污染和水资源保护等问题上,我们消费了多少,比地球上有多少人更重要。

有这样一个残酷的事实:一个富裕国家的普通人,他日常消耗的石油、钢铁、木材、水、煤等资源是一个穷国普通老百姓的13倍。也就是说,如果你在美国养育两个孩子,所消耗的自然资源相当于在孟加拉国、海地或赞比亚这样的国家养育26个孩子。我曾经去过很多地方(我也是一个过度消费者),但我还没有在地球上的任何地方遇到过这样庞大的一个家族。

虽然疫情期间,由于封城等因素,全球消费有所放缓,但是现在,我们的消费速度再一次以极快的速度回升。不管我们怎样用所谓的“绿色”去粉饰我们的消费欲望,也都无法跟上它增长的速度。我们在很多地方都禁用了塑料袋和塑料吸管,但与此同时,未来10年的塑料总产量肯定会上涨40%左右。虽然“环保时尚”已经成了一种时髦趋势,但过去20年间,人均购买的服装数量增加了60%,而这些服装的寿命却缩短了近一半。而在循环经济体系中,废弃产品被循环成新产品的比例实际上还在减少。被投入全球经济中的原材料数量比以往任何时候都要多。

美国人的人均消费水平更是冠绝全球。如果全世界所有人都按美国人的标准去去消费,那至少得有5个地球才能维持所有人这样的生活水平。一个叫世界资源研究所的非营利机构称,我们的消费总量问题已经成了“房子里的大象”——大家都能看见它的严重性和危险性,却都又有意无意地忽略它。气候变化问题就是一个突出的例子。过去20年间,对于气候变化问题,虽然社会高度关注,高层行动不断,技术也有所进步,但到了2019年,我们达到的最好成绩,无非是修了一些自行车道,发明了一些节能灯泡和电器,用燃烧起来更清洁一些的天然气取代了煤炭来发电,希望靠这些就能降低全球排放——而从10年代中期开始,全球排放就处于创纪录的高水平。但随着消费主义在全球的盛行,一方面是印度的中产阶层快速崛起,一方面是美国人兴起了豪宅热,全球排放再次开始打破纪录。到目前为止,在现代史上,全球温室气体排放量真正下降的时候,就只有经济发生重大衰退的时候——换句话说,也就是所有人停止消费的时候。

消费越少天越蓝

几乎就从疫情导致各国相继“封城”“封国”的那一刻起,少消费的力量就开始显现出来。消费主义文化遭到迎头痛击,而几乎就在同一时刻,全球碳排放出现了有史以来最大幅度的下降,2020年上半年的降幅几乎达到9%。仅仅几天时间,亚洲一些高度污染的工业重镇就重现了久违的蓝天。而随着全球经济的萎缩,我们也比以往更依赖于现有的可再生能源。在世界各地,都出现了一些肉眼可见的大自然收复失地的迹象。我个人最喜欢的画面,就是一群美洲鳄在墨西哥的海滩上晒太阳的照片。这片海滩正是由于没有了以往的大量游客,才又重新成为美洲鳄的乐园。

疫情不光改变了环境,也改变了我们。不论是在隔离的相对平静中,还是在焦虑与悲伤中,世界各地的人都在思考,人生最重要的究竟是什么,人的舒适与满足究竟来自何处。我猜想,在经历了这次疫情之后,与购物相比,大家可能更想时间陪伴他们在乎的人。很多人学会了享受大自然,学会了创造性地表达自己,或者学会了关注自身以外的问题。

美国历史学家、极简主义学者大卫•史曾把那种安排得极为精致饱满的小资生活称为“活动的监狱”。而逃离了“活动的监狱”之后,人们才认识到了自己在消费文化中真正看重什么,有哪些东西就算没有也能活。很多人重新发现了低消费的乐趣,比如园艺、烘焙和谈话的艺术。有的人不再为穿什么衣服烦心,也没有了与其他人攀比的压力,从而真正感到了自由。

我们已经不是疫情前的我们了。要指望大家忘掉这些变化,像以前那样无节制地消费,那简直是在污辱我们。我们之所以挺过了这场灾难,靠的不是消费,靠的是我们自己,和我们在社会中找到的资源,在“911”事件后,小布什曾号召美国人“购物救国”,这个主意当时不靠谱,现在也同样不靠谱。6月份亚马逊迎来了自己的会员日,这完全是一个亚马逊为了促进网购而自创的一个所谓“购物节”。而今年,我们也看到这个“购物节”在社交媒体上遭到了越来越多的抵制和主流的批评。

另一方面,我们对“简单生活”的讨论仍然太过肤浅。现在“少即是多”和“简单生活”这种口号已经成了流行语,而且疫情以来,由于很多人失业,加上大量企业倒闭,很多人开始给生活作减法。虽然作为个人,我们有充分的理由减少消费(既是为了省钱,也是为了环保,或者是为了追求更深的价值),但如果我们真想实现一个“低消费”的社会,我们就需要改变这个体系本身。

质重于量

比方说,我们怎么才能避免买那些一用就坏、一出来就过时或者需要升级的产品?有一种方法,就是“少买,买精”,也就是少买一些东西,买能用得更久的东西。为实现这个目标,我们可以鼓励消费者为高质量产品支付溢价,尽管这种方法在以前并不奏效。

更好的办法,是采取有力措施,帮助耐用品与一次性产品进行竞争。比如我们可以让企业为其生产过程中造成的污染支付更高的治理成本,包括大气污染成本等等——这些成本目前基本上还是由社会承担的。我们可以通过制定法律,要求产品必须易于修理,或者要求产品必须贴上寿命标签,以提醒我们它们可以使用多久。有意思的是,一些企业看到了疫情期间的消费下降给环境带来的好处,所以他们也转向了让消费者少买新产品的商业模式。比如最近,李维斯(Levi Strauss)公司就在其官网上发文称:“服装行业面临着一场过度消费的危机。”说明这个大品牌已经公开承认了这个问题。该公司推出了一个较为温和的低消费主义口号:“买得更好,穿得更久。”另外它也将销售更多的二手产品。

另一个策略是解决收入不平等的问题。研究表明,贫富差距的扩大会放大社会地位的差距,而为了追求社会上的尊严感和地位感,我们就会花更多的钱去消费,从而助长了消费主义。同时随着不安全感的增加,我们也会更加关注收入和财产问题。收入的不平等并非是一个不能改变的问题,我们知道有一些方法是可以更平均地分配财富的。

采取这样的策略后,未来我们有可能进入一个更注重产品、服务和体验的质量而非数量的时代。这样的时代仍然会保持疫情中的某些优点——比如更干净的空气和水,更少的拜金主义价值观,人与自然更和谐的关系等等。要达到这个目标,我们不能指望个人消费者的自觉,而是要靠建立一个新的世界。而要实现这个目标的第一步,就是大家都开始来讨论它。(财富中文网)

本文作者J.B. MacKinnon是新书《世界停止购物之日》的作者。本文是为Zócalo Public Square公司撰写的。

译者:朴成奎

It never seems to be the right time to talk about our consumption problem. When the economy is strong, we’re told that slowing our ever-expanding appetite for goods, services, and experiences could turn the boom into a bust. When the bust comes, we hear that the solution is to get to back to the malls and shop.

So it is as we emerge from the darkest days of COVID-19. The clamor is rising for a “consumer-driven recovery” from the pandemic downturn, or even a binge of “revenge consumption” against the virus. Powerful forces are at work to make sure these calls are heeded, from a surge in advertising spending to government stimulus checks to reminders from lifestyle media that it’s time to follow trends again.

As always, we’re being asked to postpone a conversation about the dark side of consumerism. But to yield this time would be a terrible missed opportunity. Millions of people have just had deep reckonings with their values and priorities, and—maybe most importantly—the pandemic has offered glimpses of what life beyond consumer society could look like. What better time than now to grapple with our outsize appetites and their harmful impacts on the Earth and humankind?

We might start by reminding ourselves where things stood before the coronavirus emerged in late 2019. Earlier that year, a United Nations panel reported that sometime around the turn of the millennium, consumption surpassed global population growth as the greatest driver of our environmental crises. When it comes to climate change, species extinction, toxic pollution, water conservation, and other challenges, how much each one of us consumes matters more than how many of us there are.

Consider that the average person’s lifestyle in a rich country now demands 13 times as much oil, steel, wood, water, coal, and so on as the average lifestyle in a poorer one. That means that raising two children in a country such as the United States will eat up as many natural resources as having 26 kids in a nation like Bangladesh, Haiti, or Zambia. I’ve traveled widely (I’m an overconsumer), but I have yet to encounter such a large family anywhere on Earth.

While global consumption slowed during COVID shutdowns, we’ve already regained nearly the same breakneck pace we were at in the before-times. Nothing we have done to “green” this consumer appetite has been able to keep up with how quickly it is growing. Here and there we ban plastic bags or plastic straws; meanwhile, plastic production overall is set to expand by 40% in the next decade. “Sustainable fashion” is trending, but in the past 20 years, the number of garments purchased per person increased by 60%, while the life span of those clothes was cut nearly in half. The fraction of goods in circular systems—in which discarded products are cycled into new ones—is actually shrinking. The amount of raw materials pouring into the world economy is higher than ever.

The average American alone consumes so much that if everybody in the world lived the way they do, it would take five Earths to maintain such a global standard of living. The sheer volume of our consumption has led the World Resources Institute, a nonprofit environmental research outfit, to label it the new “elephant in the room”—dangerous, obvious, and yet somehow overlooked. The standout example is the fight against climate change. Over the past two decades, no environmental issue has benefited from more public attention, high-level action, or technological progress. Yet by 2019, the best we had achieved through efforts such as building bike lanes, inventing more energy-efficient light bulbs and appliances, and producing electricity with cleaner-burning natural gas instead of coal was to level off global emissions—at what was then a record high—for a few years in the mid-2010s. Then the consumer economy picked up steam worldwide, from the rise of the middle class in India to the supersizing of McMansions in America, and emissions started breaking records again. So far in modern history, the only times that global greenhouse gas emissions have actually declined have come amid major economic downturns—in other words, when the world stops shopping.

Less shopping, bluer skies

The raw power of consuming less became clear nearly the moment the pandemic lockdowns began. Consumer culture ground to a halt—and instantly, carbon emissions began their sharpest drop on record, tumbling nearly 9% in the first half of 2020. In a matter of days, skies turned a deeper blue—most strikingly, over the hazardously polluted Asian cities that produce many of the world’s manufactured goods. As the global economy shrank, it bent closer to being able to run on existing renewable energy supplies than ever before. There were visible signs of nature rebounding. My personal favorite was a group of American crocodiles photographed basking and body-surfing on a Mexican beach left empty by the retreat of mass tourism.

It wasn’t only the environment that changed under COVID-19. We did, too. Whether in the relative calm of quarantine or the depths of anxiety and sorrow, people worldwide questioned what matters most in life and where comfort and satisfaction really come from. Nearly everyone, I suspect, is emerging from the pandemic less hopped up to shop than to spend time with people they care about. Many others have a new appreciation for enjoying nature, expressing themselves creatively, or getting involved in issues larger than themselves.

This escape from what historian David Shi, a scholar of America’s simpler living traditions, once called “the prison of activities”—relentlessly overplanned and overscheduled lives—allowed people to learn firsthand what they truly value in consumer culture, and what they can easily live without. Many rediscovered low-consuming pleasures such as gardening, baking, and the art of conversation. Still others enjoyed freedom from social expectations around how they dress, and relief from constant pressure to keep up with the Joneses.

We are not the same people now as we were before the pandemic, and to be asked to put those changes behind us and return to full-throttle consumption is insulting. It’s the resources we found within ourselves and our communities, not consumerism, that got us through this catastrophe. “Go shopping” is as unsatisfactory a message today as it was when George W. Bush famously suggested it as a meaningful response to the 9/11 attacks. Fittingly, when this year’s Prime Day—the bogus shopping “holiday” invented by Amazon for its own benefit—arrived in June, we saw it meet with increasing social media pushback and mainstream critique.

On the other hand, we’ve also been talking too simply about simpler living. Catchphrases like “less is more” and “live simply” have always been glib, and seem even more so now that we’ve freshly seen how the pandemic pause in household spending led to joblessness and shuttered businesses. While there are good reasons for individuals to choose to buy less (from saving money to helping the planet to pursuing deeper values), if we really want to achieve a “deconsumer” society, we need to change the system itself.

Quality over quantity

How, for example, might we reverse the unpopular trend toward products that quickly fall apart, go out of fashion, or need an upgrade? One answer is to move toward a “buy less, buy better” economy in which we buy fewer things but ones that last longer. To get there, we could encourage consumers to pay a premium price for quality, though that hasn’t worked well in the past.

A better bet is taking concrete steps to help durable goods compete with disposable ones. We could make companies pay more of the health and environmental costs of pollution, including climate pollution, produced in their products’ manufacture—costs that are currently borne by society at large. We could pass laws mandating that goods be easily repairable, or require life-span labels that tell us how long the things we buy will last. Interestingly, some companies—having witnessed the clear environmental benefits of the COVID-19 consumer slowdown—were inspired to move toward a business model in which customers buy fewer new things. “The apparel industry is facing an overconsumption crisis,” Levi Strauss posted on its website recently in a momentous public acknowledgement by a major brand. The company was launching a mildly deconsumerist slogan (“Buy better. Wear longer.”) and will also sell more of its products secondhand.

Another tack might address income inequality. Research suggests that larger gaps between rich and poor aggravate consumerism by magnifying status differences, which cause us to spend more in pursuit of a dignified place in society, and by increasing feelings of insecurity, which tend to make us focus more on income and possessions. Income inequality is something concrete we can change. We know there are ways to spread wealth more evenly.

Strategies like these point to a future built more around quality than quantity when it comes to our stuff, services, and experiences. They also point to a quality of life that includes some of the good that we glimpsed in the pandemic—cleaner air and water, less materialistic values, a better relationship with nature. We won’t get there by wishing individual consumers will one day see the light. We get there by building a different world. The first step is to start talking about it.

J.B. MacKinnon is the author of the newly released book The Day the World Stops Shopping. This piece was written for Zócalo Public Square.

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