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咖啡也讲政治?有些咖啡店确实分党派

咖啡也讲政治?有些咖啡店确实分党派

Rob Cooper 2020-03-15
几个世纪以来,不管在美国还是海外,咖啡馆一直是政治活跃分子聚会的场所,争论跟杯里的咖啡一样热气腾腾。

2019年6月,卡马拉·哈里斯访问旧金山的Manny's咖啡馆为参加竞选筹款。图片来源:COURTESY OF MANNY'S

旧金山的Manny’s咖啡馆里,包括卡马拉·哈里斯和皮特·布蒂吉格在内17位民主党总统候选人齐聚一堂,参加《穆勒报告》的16小时阅读会;在阿肯色州本顿维尔的Guns & Grounds,咖啡师一边为肖恩·汉尼蒂和小唐纳德·特朗普倒上两人喜欢的黑枪咖啡,一边不急不忙地卖Bushmaster AR-15s步枪和子弹。

比起美国其他咖啡馆,这两家显得非常特别,当然店里都有一群热爱咖啡的顾客,还有明显的党派立场。几个世纪以来,不管在美国还是海外,咖啡馆一直是政治活跃分子聚会的场所,争论跟杯里的咖啡一样热气腾腾。

不过,随着新磨爪哇咖啡传遍全美国,如果有顾客政见跟店里常客不一致,可能得多谈谈天气才能避免冲突。如今的咖啡馆也分蓝派和红派,反映出美国两极分化加剧的状况,虽然手中的咖啡都是一样乌黑。

“我想打造一个实体空间,让人们成为更知情也更积极参与的公民,”Manny’s老板曼尼·耶库蒂尔说。“很多人希望参与,只是不知道第一步该怎么做。Manny’s的目标就是变成人们开始参与的地方。”所以,位于旧金山教会区繁华地带的咖啡馆里还悬挂着大块LED屏幕,显示着“选举倒计时”,倒数距离11月选举的天数、小时、分钟和秒数。

2019年8月,民主党前候选人玛丽安·威廉姆森在Manny's咖啡馆对人群发表讲话。

Manny’s的活动厅里从来没来过“大象(共和党人)”,只有民主党人发表讲话。耶库蒂尔承认,咖啡馆是“党派立场明确的空间,因为旧金山的倾向也很鲜明”,毕竟旧金山只有9%的人支持特朗普。他补充说,咖啡馆欢迎所有顾客。身为热衷政治的咖啡馆老板,他也得拿捏好分寸,既支持某些候选人,又不影响吸引潜在客户。

30岁的耶库蒂尔父辈是阿富汗移民,曾在奥巴马政府担任白宫实习生,开咖啡馆之前曾为2012年奥巴马和2016年克林顿竞选团队工作。由于他跟民主党的关系,刚开始吸引到几位候选人,其他人都是靠口碑。“我认为咖啡馆也是举办竞选活动的空间,从一场选举到下一场选举都可以参与,”他说。

多场活动里,站着或让人羡慕地坐在沙发上参加活动的人最多达200人。2018年选举之夜,也就是咖啡馆开业以来,活动已举办550场,每天超过一场,吸引了共计3万多人参加。人们前往咖啡馆参加候选人讲话、辩论观察会,还有作家作品阅读(让你花钱的不仅有几乎全素的菜单,还有政治书籍)。

Manny’s咖啡馆肯定不会开在阿肯色州西北部,2017年开业的Guns & Grounds一直是《宪法》第二修正案支持人士的最爱。Guns & Grounds位于本顿维尔,在Facebook上发布的一则帖子里写道:“家里下一代准备好收藏枪支吗?我们店就有小口径狙击步枪Crickett 22lr!非常适合带上跟孩子们去野营!”2020年2月咖啡馆里的促销活动是手枪抽奖,凡是购买“bazooka”(大杯)的顾客都可参与。

犹他州奥勒姆的Black Rifle咖啡店内,墙上牌子上写着:“让咖啡再次伟大。”

犹他州奥勒姆的黑枪咖啡店也是一边卖美式咖啡一边卖手枪,希拉里·克林顿在当地仅获得14%选票。咖啡馆于2018年开业,位置就在Ready Gunner firearms 枪械店的中间。“每天都有很多人带着枪进来,”手枪店兼咖啡馆经理凯西·柯里说。还有不少人前往邻近的射击场。就算咖啡的香味叫不醒你,隆隆枪声也会吵醒。

常客里就包括枪支爱好者小唐纳德·特朗普,还有黑枪咖啡公司的市场副总裁莫莉·施韦克特,她曾负责剑桥分析公司备受争议的特朗普竞选数字营销业务。不过柯里表示,尽管顾客包括各色人,“店里很少讨论政治问题。”

亚利桑那州肖洛市的Trumped商店和咖啡店不卖枪支,咖啡柜台上写着“让咖啡再次伟大”(注:特朗普在2016年大选中所使用的口号是“让美国再次伟大”)。店里出售各种商品,从拿铁、巧克力饼到特朗普T恤、发声笔、泰迪熊、运动裤和射击眼镜应有尽有。联合店主史蒂芬·斯莱顿表示,销售额每年都能翻一番,他还认为这是美国唯一一家独家经营特朗普主题商品的商店。

2016年,斯莱顿在店里组织支持特朗普的活动时,和特朗普相关的商品简直供不应求,后来找到当地供应商才能跟上。竞选结束后,他继续销售“非官方”商品,最后加上了咖啡和食物。

黑枪咖啡店出售的商品。

尽管多数居民都是低收入的白人共和党,倾向于支持特朗普,但该商店一直是山城里不少人的眼中钉。有人打进威胁电话,有人举行和平抗议,还有人破坏商店。“我们只得报警赶走抗议者,”斯莱顿说,“硬闯破坏事件发生后,我们装了9台监控摄像头。”该店并未退缩,还打算在阵亡将士纪念日周末举办宪法第二修正案集会,当地支持特朗普的政界人士将出席。

新英格兰的九家蓝州咖啡馆里,写有特朗普竞选口号MAGA(让美国再次伟大)的帽子极少像热蛋糕一样畅销。从2004年开第一家店(口号:“终极咖啡豆”)开张以来,蓝州咖啡馆出售了大量名为“公平贸易”的有机咖啡和本地沙拉,向非营利组织捐赠了100多万美元,其中包括进步组织ActBlue,还有People for the American Way。

再看西海岸,Resistencia咖啡(口号:“为人民提供咖啡”)于2018年6月在西雅图南公园社区开业。店老板智利移民科特·索伦斯表示:“这里的居民曾经参与抵抗,现在对特朗普也是抵抗,所以这个名字(翻译成英语是“抵抗”)很合适。”店里设有选民登记处。

“太多公民生活遭到侵蚀,怨气转移到网络上。在网络上对话其实很可怕,”索伦斯说。“所以我们为人们提供面对面交流的空间。各种各样的人都会觉得这是属于自己的空间。即便是特朗普的支持者也可以加入。我们尽量避免争吵。”

大多数咖啡店确实避免介入纷争,至少会尽其所能避免,即便“党派”倾向明显的咖啡店也一样。纽约州克罗顿和普莱森特维尔的黑牛咖啡店老板迈克尔·格兰特说:“我们有明信片星期二活动,顾客在克罗顿店中间的桌子上给政客写信,寄送对象包括民主党和共和党。我们邀请所有人参加,不管支持特朗普还是反对特朗普。但我们不鼓励身份较高的州和联邦候选人来店里拉票,这些政客通常有随行人员,有时很讨厌。”

也许那些人应该多喝点低咖啡因饮料吧。(财富中文网)

译者:夏林

旧金山的Manny’s咖啡馆里,包括卡马拉·哈里斯和皮特·布蒂吉格在内17位民主党总统候选人齐聚一堂,参加《穆勒报告》的16小时阅读会;在阿肯色州本顿维尔的Guns & Grounds,咖啡师一边为肖恩·汉尼蒂和小唐纳德·特朗普倒上两人喜欢的黑枪咖啡,一边不急不忙地卖Bushmaster AR-15s步枪和子弹。

比起美国其他咖啡馆,这两家显得非常特别,当然店里都有一群热爱咖啡的顾客,还有明显的党派立场。几个世纪以来,不管在美国还是海外,咖啡馆一直是政治活跃分子聚会的场所,争论跟杯里的咖啡一样热气腾腾。

不过,随着新磨爪哇咖啡传遍全美国,如果有顾客政见跟店里常客不一致,可能得多谈谈天气才能避免冲突。如今的咖啡馆也分蓝派和红派,反映出美国两极分化加剧的状况,虽然手中的咖啡都是一样乌黑。

“我想打造一个实体空间,让人们成为更知情也更积极参与的公民,”Manny’s老板曼尼·耶库蒂尔说。“很多人希望参与,只是不知道第一步该怎么做。Manny’s的目标就是变成人们开始参与的地方。”所以,位于旧金山教会区繁华地带的咖啡馆里还悬挂着大块LED屏幕,显示着“选举倒计时”,倒数距离11月选举的天数、小时、分钟和秒数。

Manny’s的活动厅里从来没来过“大象(共和党人)”,只有民主党人发表讲话。耶库蒂尔承认,咖啡馆是“党派立场明确的空间,因为旧金山的倾向也很鲜明”,毕竟旧金山只有9%的人支持特朗普。他补充说,咖啡馆欢迎所有顾客。身为热衷政治的咖啡馆老板,他也得拿捏好分寸,既支持某些候选人,又不影响吸引潜在客户。

30岁的耶库蒂尔父辈是阿富汗移民,曾在奥巴马政府担任白宫实习生,开咖啡馆之前曾为2012年奥巴马和2016年克林顿竞选团队工作。由于他跟民主党的关系,刚开始吸引到几位候选人,其他人都是靠口碑。“我认为咖啡馆也是举办竞选活动的空间,从一场选举到下一场选举都可以参与,”他说。

多场活动里,站着或让人羡慕地坐在沙发上参加活动的人最多达200人。2018年选举之夜,也就是咖啡馆开业以来,活动已举办550场,每天超过一场,吸引了共计3万多人参加。人们前往咖啡馆参加候选人讲话、辩论观察会,还有作家作品阅读(让你花钱的不仅有几乎全素的菜单,还有政治书籍)。

Manny’s咖啡馆肯定不会开在阿肯色州西北部,2017年开业的Guns & Grounds一直是《宪法》第二修正案支持人士的最爱。Guns & Grounds位于本顿维尔,在Facebook上发布的一则帖子里写道:“家里下一代准备好收藏枪支吗?我们店就有小口径狙击步枪Crickett 22lr!非常适合带上跟孩子们去野营!”2020年2月咖啡馆里的促销活动是手枪抽奖,凡是购买“bazooka”(大杯)的顾客都可参与。

犹他州奥勒姆的黑枪咖啡店也是一边卖美式咖啡一边卖手枪,希拉里·克林顿在当地仅获得14%选票。咖啡馆于2018年开业,位置就在Ready Gunner firearms 枪械店的中间。“每天都有很多人带着枪进来,”手枪店兼咖啡馆经理凯西·柯里说。还有不少人前往邻近的射击场。就算咖啡的香味叫不醒你,隆隆枪声也会吵醒。

常客里就包括枪支爱好者小唐纳德·特朗普,还有黑枪咖啡公司的市场副总裁莫莉·施韦克特,她曾负责剑桥分析公司备受争议的特朗普竞选数字营销业务。不过柯里表示,尽管顾客包括各色人,“店里很少讨论政治问题。”

亚利桑那州肖洛市的Trumped商店和咖啡店不卖枪支,咖啡柜台上写着“让咖啡再次伟大”(注:特朗普在2016年大选中所使用的口号是“让美国再次伟大”)。店里出售各种商品,从拿铁、巧克力饼到特朗普T恤、发声笔、泰迪熊、运动裤和射击眼镜应有尽有。联合店主史蒂芬·斯莱顿表示,销售额每年都能翻一番,他还认为这是美国唯一一家独家经营特朗普主题商品的商店。

2016年,斯莱顿在店里组织支持特朗普的活动时,和特朗普相关的商品简直供不应求,后来找到当地供应商才能跟上。竞选结束后,他继续销售“非官方”商品,最后加上了咖啡和食物。

尽管多数居民都是低收入的白人共和党,倾向于支持特朗普,但该商店一直是山城里不少人的眼中钉。有人打进威胁电话,有人举行和平抗议,还有人破坏商店。“我们只得报警赶走抗议者,”斯莱顿说,“硬闯破坏事件发生后,我们装了9台监控摄像头。”该店并未退缩,还打算在阵亡将士纪念日周末举办宪法第二修正案集会,当地支持特朗普的政界人士将出席。

新英格兰的九家蓝州咖啡馆里,写有特朗普竞选口号MAGA(让美国再次伟大)的帽子极少像热蛋糕一样畅销。从2004年开第一家店(口号:“终极咖啡豆”)开张以来,蓝州咖啡馆出售了大量名为“公平贸易”的有机咖啡和本地沙拉,向非营利组织捐赠了100多万美元,其中包括进步组织ActBlue,还有People for the American Way。

再看西海岸,Resistencia咖啡(口号:“为人民提供咖啡”)于2018年6月在西雅图南公园社区开业。店老板智利移民科特·索伦斯表示:“这里的居民曾经参与抵抗,现在对特朗普也是抵抗,所以这个名字(翻译成英语是“抵抗”)很合适。”店里设有选民登记处。

“太多公民生活遭到侵蚀,怨气转移到网络上。在网络上对话其实很可怕,”索伦斯说。“所以我们为人们提供面对面交流的空间。各种各样的人都会觉得这是属于自己的空间。即便是特朗普的支持者也可以加入。我们尽量避免争吵。”

大多数咖啡店确实避免介入纷争,至少会尽其所能避免,即便“党派”倾向明显的咖啡店也一样。纽约州克罗顿和普莱森特维尔的黑牛咖啡店老板迈克尔·格兰特说:“我们有明信片星期二活动,顾客在克罗顿店中间的桌子上给政客写信,寄送对象包括民主党和共和党。我们邀请所有人参加,不管支持特朗普还是反对特朗普。但我们不鼓励身份较高的州和联邦候选人来店里拉票,这些政客通常有随行人员,有时很讨厌。”

也许那些人应该多喝点低咖啡因饮料吧。(财富中文网)

译者:夏林

Manny’s café in San Francisco has hosted talks by 17 Democratic presidential candidates, including Kamala Harris and Pete Buttigieg, and a 16-hour reading of the Mueller Report. At Guns & Grounds in Bentonville, Ark., baristas pour Black Rifle Coffee—praised by Sean Hannity and Donald Trump Jr.—when they aren’t busy selling Bushmaster AR-15s and bullets.

These two spots and others around the U.S. have little in common except coffee-loving customers and a penchant for unapologetically partisan advocacy. For centuries, cafés in the U.S. and abroad have been gathering spots for political activists who engage in arguments that can get as heated as the caffeinated drinks poured in their cups.

At the new batch of java spots percolating around the country, however, patrons whose political opinions differ from those of the morning regulars should probably stick to talking about the weather to avoid a confrontation. Reflecting America’s increasing polarization, these cafés are either blue or red, even though the coffee poured is always black.

“I’ve tried to create a physical place where you can become a better informed and more involved citizen,” says Manny’s owner Manny Yekutiel. “Many people want to become civically engaged but don’t know where to go to start. Manny’s aims to be that place.” Thus the large “Election Countdown” LED sign above the café, which occupies a busy corner in San Francisco’s Mission District. The sign displays the number of days, hours, minutes, and seconds before the November election.

There is never an “elephant [Republican] in the room” on Manny’s event-room stage, where only Democrats give talks. Yekutiel acknowledges it’s a “partisan space because San Francisco is a partisan city”—nine percent of San Franciscans voted for Trump—but adds that everyone is welcome. Politically passionate café owners like him must walk a tightrope between supporting certain candidates and causes and the need to not alienate potential customers.

Yekutiel, 30, the son of an Afghan immigrant, was an Obama White House intern who worked for the 2012 Obama and 2016 Clinton campaigns before opening the café. His Democratic Party connections helped bring in the first few candidates; word of mouth did the rest. “I see this space as a campaign except that we’ll keep going from election to election,” he says.

Capacity crowds of up to 200 stand or sink into Manny’s coveted couches and futons at many events. An astounding 550 events—more than one a day—have drawn a total of more than 30,000 people since the café opened on Election Night 2018. They come for the candidate talks, debate watch parties, and author readings (political books are sold along with the mostly vegetarian menu items).

Manny’s would never make it in northwestern Arkansas, where Guns & Grounds has been a favorite of Second Amendment devotees since 2017. A Facebook post by the Bentonville shop reads: “Is your young one ready for the next step up in their firearm collection? We have a Crickett 22lr in the shop! Perfect for a range day with the children!” The February 2020 shop promotion was a raffle for a handgun with all “bazooka” (large) beverage purchasers eligible to win.

Another shop that peddles pistols while pouring Americanos is the Black Rifle Coffee Shop in Orem, Utah, in a county where Hillary Clinton took only 14% of the vote. The coffee counter, which opened in 2018, is in the bull’s-eye center of the Ready Gunner firearms shop. “We have a lot of people come in for everyday carry handguns,” says store/café manager Casey Currey. Others hit the adjacent shooting range. If the coffee doesn’t wake you up, the gunfire will.

Visitors have included gun enthusiast Donald Trump Jr., and Black Rifle Coffee’s VP of marketing, Molly Schweickert, led Cambridge Analytica’s controversial digital marketing operation for the Trump campaign. Nonetheless, says Currey, “politics rarely comes up in the store.”

No guns are sold at the Trumped Store & Coffee Shop in Show Low, Ariz., where a coffee-counter sign reads “Making Coffee Great Again.” But it sells everything from lattes and brownies to Trump T-shirts, talking pens, teddy bears, sweatpants, and shot glasses. Sales have doubled each year, says co-owner Steven Slaton, who believes it’s America’s only store to exclusively carry Trump-themed merchandise.

When Slaton ran the local Trump campaign out of the storefront in 2016, he couldn’t keep Trump items in stock, so he found local suppliers to keep pace with the demand. After the campaign ended, he just kept selling the “unofficial” merchandise, eventually adding coffee and food.

The shop has been a lightning rod in the small mountain town even though most residents are white, low-income Republicans who tend to favor Trump. Threatening calls have come in, peaceful protests held, and the shop was vandalized. “We call the police just to harass the protesters,” says Slaton, “and after the break-in, we installed nine cameras.” Far from backing down, the store will host a Second Amendment rally on Memorial Day weekend featuring local Trump-supporting politicians.

The MAGA hats that sell like hotcakes at the Trumped Store are rarely seen inside any of the nine Blue State Coffee locations in New England. Since the first shop (slogan: “Beans to an End”) opened in 2004, enough Fair Trade organic coffee and locally sourced salads have been sold that Blue State has donated more than $1 million to nonprofits including the progressive groups ActBlue and People for the American Way.

On the opposite coast, Resistencia Coffee (slogan: “Coffee for the People”) opened in June 2018 in Seattle’s South Park neighborhood. “It’s a neighborhood of immigrants who have a history of resistance, so combined with the resistance to Trump, the name [‘Resistance’ in English] was a good fit,” says Coté Soerens, the Chilean immigrant who founded the shop. Voter registration drives are hosted there.

“So much of civic life has eroded and moved online, which is a terrible forum for dialogue,” says Soerens. “So we created a space for people to talk face-to-face. People of all kinds feel like it’s their space now. Even Trump supporters come in. We try to stay above the fray.”

Most coffee shops do stay above the fray—even the “partisan” shops—or at least they try. Says Michael Grant, owner of the Black Cow Coffee shops in Croton and Pleasantville, N.Y.: “On Postcard Tuesdays, when customers write to politicians at the center table in Croton, the postcards are addressed to both Democrats and Republicans. We invite everyone to get involved, Trumpers and never-Trumpers alike. But we discourage the bigger state and federal candidates from soliciting votes at the shops because they usually have entourages and can get pretty obnoxious.”

Maybe they should stick to decaf.

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