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2019年餐饮业的几个新现象

Naomi Tomky 2020年01月02日

2019年,众多才华横溢的餐馆、主厨、调酒师和烹饪业务人士想出了各种改善我们进食体验的方法。

西雅图本·巴利斯餐馆的餐厅。图片来源:Ben Paris

这一年餐饮界有着许多令人惊叹的潮流走向,包括土司的持续改进、小地方萌生大想法的方式、高端火锅风靡全美等。在2019年的历程中,众多才华横溢的餐馆、主厨、调酒师和烹饪业务人士想出了各种改善我们进食体验的方法。

餐馆和相关业务人士去年干得最漂亮的五件事如下——希望他们在未来会干得更多。

两人搭档(或多人搭档)

如同音乐领域的超级组合概念一样,餐饮界的顶级女性去年双双搭档,强强联手。在洛杉矶Sqirl餐厅工作的本地女性杰西卡·科斯洛,与旧金山Cala餐厅的加布里埃尔·卡玛拉,以及墨西哥城的Contramar餐馆合作启动了Onda餐厅。

This year set a table full of amazing restaurant trends, including the continual improvement on toast, the way big ideas took shape in tiny spaces, and how high-end hot pot exploded all over America. And over the course of 2019, tons of incredibly talented restaurateurs, chefs, bartenders, and culinary businesspeople came up with ways to improve our eating experiences.

Here are five of the best things that restaurants and related business did this year—and that they hopefully plan to do a lot more of in the future.

It takes two (or more)

Like the concept of supergroups in the music world, the top women of the restaurant world paired off and powered up this year. In Los Angeles, local Jessica Koslow of Sqirl worked with Gabriela Cámara of San Francisco’s Cala and Mexico City’s Contramar to launch Onda.

Onda餐厅提供的菜肴——鱼潜海带,该餐馆被描述为是姐妹城市洛杉矶与墨西哥城之间的“对话”。图片来源:Onda

或许它是去年最受期待的饭店,它将两个城市、两种风格、两道菜系融合在一个神奇的空间里。在华盛顿特区,卡理·斯泰纳和安娜·布莱雷斯各自运营着自己的餐馆,但去年她们合作开了一家欢快友好的社区型餐馆,叫Dos Mamis。

就在年底前,底特律四位著名的餐馆老板和主厨——Marrow的何平和萨拉·韦尔奇,Folk的琪琪·露亚和罗哈尼·福克斯,组成了一个团队成为巢蛋(Nest Egg),并开了一家供应酒和海鲜的餐馆Mink。

墙纸不再可有可无

主题墙纸在餐馆的存在,颇有一段时间了,但2019年主题墙纸上了一个台阶——秀色可餐。

在2018年走红餐馆中休闲派的一个分支、位于旧金山的Che Fico Alimentari餐馆,图案怡人的墙纸上的玫瑰色花丛,位于钻石形的中心位置,它们都是由各种肉和熟食制成,展示着餐馆的明星产品。

镇上Breadbelly餐馆的墙纸特色是亚洲人和亚裔美国人的糕点,突出展示了榴莲、番荔枝、山竹和其他东南亚特色水果。

Perhaps the year’s most anticipated restaurant, it brought together two cities, two styles, and two cuisines into one incredible space. In Washington D.C., Carlie Steiner and Anna Bran-Leis each operate their own restaurants (Himitsu, now known as Pom Pom, and Taqueria Del Barrio), but came together to open a cheery, friendly neighboring spot, Dos Mamis.

And just squeaking in before the end of the year, four of Detroit’s best-known restaurateurs and chefs—Ping Ho and Sarah Welch of Marrow and Kiki Louya and Rohani Foulkes of Folk—formed a group called Nest Egg and opened wine and seafood spot Mink.

Wallpaper is no longer an afterthought

Statement wallpaper has been big at restaurants for a long time, but 2019 took it to the next level—looking good enough to eat.

At San Francisco’s Che Fico Alimentari, the more casual offshoot of last year’s hit, Che Fico, the delightfully patterned wallpaper’s rosy rosettes in the center of the diamond pattern are all made of various meats and charcuterie, referencing the restaurant’s star product.

Across town, the restroom wallpaper of Breadbelly, which specializes in Asian and Asian-American pastries, features durian, cherimoya, mangosteen, and other treasured fruits of Southeast Asia.

小餐车来到了在本·巴利斯就餐的客人面前。图片来源:Ben Paris

西雅图的本·巴利斯餐馆,在餐厅里贴出了一款怪异海洋生物壁画,但与之相连的宾馆大堂墙纸则受到著名的派克市场的启发——不说别的了——尤其是季节性的当地海产。

孵化器并非只适用于科技初创企业

从塔斯卡卢萨到塔科马,人人都厌倦了美食广场——尤其是那些被批评过度炒作的在全国范围内一下子推出的美食广场。但有一种美食广场势头不减,仍令人振奋:烹饪孵化器,是为试图开创业务获取资源的企业家准备的。

Seattle’s Ben Paris features a whimsical sea creature mural in the dining room, but the connected hotel lobby wallpaper was inspired by the famous Pike Place Market—among other things—especially the seasonal produce and local seafood.

Incubators are not just for tech startups

From Tuscaloosa to Tacoma, everybody is sick of food halls—especially the watered-down, overhyped versions that have been pushed out en masse around the country. But there is one genre of food hall that is picking up steam and still getting everybody excited: culinary incubators for entrepreneurs struggling to get access to the resources needed to start businesses.

里姆的加州,是一家位于加州奥克兰的阿拉伯街头食品烘培店,它就源自一个2005年在旧金山发起的成功的孵化器项目La Cocina。图片来源:La Cocina

位于印第安纳波利斯的费什的试验厨房,和位于洛杉矶的大道市场,都在某种程度上实践着这一理念,这一潮流越来越强。旧金山的La Cocina市政市场,侧重于培养以低收入移民和有色人种女性为主的主厨,这个项目去年秋天没有启动,但今年年初应该落地。

与此同时,西雅图郊外的Tukwila Village美食广场将要开启,它是由食品创新网络运营的,为非营利项目的参与者提供一个家,帮助他们启动一些食品业务,他们主要是一些低收入的难民和移民企业家。

如同骑士精神一样,贴心服务并未消失

许多父母出门,会带好给孩子换尿布之所需,但当他们走进一间餐馆厕所,发现里面堆着许多尿布和布条,感觉是不一样的。

位于阿什维尔的Tupelo Honey咖啡馆,已经扩展到了像博伊西这样的地方,但它们没忘了带上南方人的贴心和热情,在卫生间里他们放置尿布,在全国有众多的独立餐馆也这么干,比如西雅图的JuneBaby和Sen Noodle House。

类似的,像芝加哥的Oriole和西雅图的Harry’s Fine Foods餐馆,他们会在卫生间放置女性月经用品。这只是件小事,但让人有宾至如归的感觉。

无酒精调饮终被认可

任何一个不喝酒的人——不论是由于怀孕或健康原因暂时不喝,还是一直不喝酒——在大约2017年前会这么跟你说,如果你不喝酒,餐馆才不关心你喝什么。除了标配的苏打水,不喝酒的人也没啥好喝的。

Fisher’s Test Kitchen in Indianapolis and BLVD MRKT in Los Angeles each operate some version of this idea, and the trend is only getting bigger. San Francisco’s La Cocina Municipal Marketplace, which focuses on chefs who are low-income immigrants and women of color, didn’t quite open on time this fall but should land early next year.

Around the same time, the Tukwila Village Food Hall just outside Seattle should open. Run by the Food Innovation Network, it provides a home for participants in the nonprofit’s program to help launch food businesses primarily by low-income refugee and immigrant entrepreneurs.

Like chivalry, hospitality is not dead

Most parents come well-packed with what they need to change their children’s diapers, but that doesn’t make it any less of a relief to walk into a bathroom and see that diapers and wipes are well-stocked.

As Asheville-based Tupelo Honey Café expanded to places like Boise, the company brought a bit of Southern hospitality along by keeping diapers in the bathrooms, as do tons of independently owned restaurants around the country like JuneBaby and Sen Noodle House in Seattle.

Similarly, places like Chicago’s Oriole and Seattle’s Harry’s Fine Foods keep menstrual products in their restrooms for customers. It’s a small notion that makes those who know that they might someday need one feel welcome.

Mocktails finally get respect

As anyone who has been sober—whether temporarily due to pregnancy or health, or permanently—before about 2017 can tell you, restaurants did not used to care what you drank if you didn’t want alcohol. Beyond the standard soda gun, nondrinkers were pretty much out of luck.

无酒精调饮出现在Existing Conditions餐厅的菜单上,这是一家位于曼哈顿西村的颇为流行的鸡尾酒吧。图片来源:Existing Conditions

最近几年有些事变了,出现了几种好喝的瓶装气泡水或无酒精调饮,而去年几乎卷起一阵大潮,不喝酒人士对饮料的需求得到了尊重,选择也多了。现在的餐馆会吹嘘其自制的酸化饮料和苏打水,并在啤酒饮料龙头里也放红茶菌,不含酒精饮料出现在了鸡尾酒菜单的前面和中间——比如在热门的纽约鸡尾酒吧Existing Conditions,这些饮料出现在了首页——终于不再是畏畏缩缩地放在最后面了。(财富中文网)

译者:宣峰

 

But while that changed in recent years and a few nice bottled sparkling waters or mocktails popped up, this year brought a near tidal wave of both options and respect for the nondrinker’s beverage needs. Restaurants now brag about their house-made shrubs and sodas and keep kombucha on tap with the beer, and spirit-free drinks popped up front and center on cocktail menus—like hot NYC cocktail bar Existing Conditions, where they’re on the first page—finally released from the corner of shame in the back.

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