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新品在中国热卖,博柏利股价大涨

Robert Williams, 彭博社 2019年07月24日

这个品牌的网红设计师将经典重新设计后在中国迅速走红,需求大增。

2019年2月伦敦时装周,一位嘉宾站在博柏利展台外,身穿博柏利夹克衫,围着印有字母花样的领巾。图片来源:Photo by Edward Berthelot—Getty Images

博柏利集团股价飙升,因为网红设计师将经典重新设计后在中国迅速走红,需求大增。

在截至6月的三个月里,博柏利的同店销售增长4%,达到分析师预测的两倍。博柏利在上周二表示,去年设计师里卡多·提西加盟品牌之后推出的新品实现了两位数百分比的强劲增长,此前提西在法国时尚品牌纪梵希从事设计而知名。

博柏利在伦敦市场股价最高上涨达11%,创下2012年以来的最大涨幅。

提西刚到博柏利,就给各个店面和广告牌加上了新的字母印花图案,在旅行包、高跟鞋和风衣等产品里也一并添加,与酩悦·轩尼诗-路易·威登集团的旗舰品牌路易威登等注重显示商标的同行展开竞争。

提西加入博柏利后,在去年秋天举办了首场时装秀,新造型在Instagram和中国的微信等社交平台上重新引起了消费者的兴趣,之后公司在各商店大力铺货。

尽管第二季度中国经济增速创下了近30年新低,但该季度博柏利在中国大陆的销售额增长了十几个百分点,超出分析师预期。

新的字母图案

“字母印花在中国引发了强烈共鸣。” 公司的首席财务官朱莉·布朗在接受记者的电话采访时说道。“新设计吸引了很多千禧一代顾客。”

虽然受到关店冲击,但随着提西推出的新品推动更快增长,博柏利维持了营收持平的业绩预期。博柏利一直在缩减非奢侈品和折扣门店的规模,降低百货商店业绩低迷带来的风险,同时努力提升品牌认知度。

在欧洲奢侈品公司当中,博柏利第一家公布第二季度销售额,在中国需求的回弹力度受到质疑之际,这份强劲的财报可能提振全行业的预期。

中国当局最近出台了降低销售税和提升进口关税等政策,刺激中国消费者减少国外购物游,转为国内消费。但布朗表示,由于很多中国游客热爱提西推出的新品,还是拉升了博柏利在英国的销量。

博柏利的设计创新“应该能让人相信中国大陆的消费可健康增长”,MainFirst的分析师约翰·盖伊在一份报告中表示。博柏利在整个亚洲地区的业绩都好于预期,但在重要购物中心香港可能受频繁的抗议活动拖累。

前任设计师克里斯托弗·贝利在职后期,博柏利陷入了增长停滞,提西的加入为品牌设计注入了新活力。在此之前,贝利用时尚的英伦校园风设计风格帮助博柏利提高了五倍营收。

蕾哈娜和麦当娜

为纪梵希工作期间,提西将传奇性的法国高级定制品牌与流行文化偶像碧昂斯和金·卡戴珊搭上了桥。在加入博柏利后,他推出的新造型一面世就受到了蕾哈娜、麦当娜和伊莉娜·莎伊克等人的热捧,也借机提升了网络知名度。

博柏利表示,提西加入公司一年以后,截至第二季度末他的新设计占到店内销售约一半。(财富中文网)

译者:艾伦

审校:夏林

Burberry Group Plc surged as demand for its social-media-savvy designer’s revamped looks took off in China.

Store sales rose 4% on a comparable basis for the three months through June, double the rate analysts predicted. New collections from Riccardo Tisci, who joined the U.K. luxury brand last year after winning fame at the French fashion house Givenchy, delivered strong double-digit percentage growth, Burberry said last Tuesday.

The shares rose as much as 11% in London trading, the most since 2012 on an intraday basis.

Tisci marked his arrival at Burberry by plastering a flashy new monogram print across store fronts and billboards, and on products including duffel bags, high-heeled shoes and trench coats in a bid to compete with logo-focused labels like LVMH flagship Louis Vuitton.

Since Tisci’s first runway show for the brand last fall, Burberry has been racing to get those products into stores as the new look sparked renewed interest on social networks like Instagram and China’s WeChat.

Sales in Mainland China rose in the mid-teen percentages during the quarter, outpacing analyst expectations, even as that country reported its slowest economic growth in almost three decades.

New Monogram

“The monogram has resonated very strongly with the Chinese,” Chief Financial Officer Julie Brown said in a call with reporters. “We’ve attracted more millennials with that range.”

The company maintained guidance for flat revenue as the faster growth from Tisci’s collections will help offset the impact of store closures. Burberry has been scaling back non-luxury and discount locations to cut exposure to struggling department stores and boost perception of the brand.

Burberry is the first European luxury company to report sales this quarter, and the strong report could boost prospects across the sector amid questions about the resilience of Chinese demand.

Policies including recent cuts to sales taxes and import duties have encouraged Chinese shoppers to rein in foreign shopping trips and instead spend at home. Yet Chinese tourists also boosted the company’s U.K. performance, Brown said, as shoppers sought out Tisci’s looks.

Burberry’s update “should reassure with a healthy uptick in mainland Chinese consumption,” MainFirst analyst John Guy said in a note. Results were better than expected across Asia, where protests in the key Hong Kong shopping hub were seen as a possible drag.

Tisci has breathed new life into the brand’s designs after growth stagnated at the end of previous designer Christopher Bailey’s tenure. Previously, Bailey helped increase Burberry’s revenues fivefold with his sleek, preppy take on British style.

Rihanna, Madonna

At Givenchy, Tisci forged alliances between the storied French couture house and pop-culture icons like Beyonce and Kim Kardashian. At Burberry, early adopters of his new look have included Rihanna, Madonna, and Irina Shayk—boosting the brand’s visibility online.

A year after Tisci’s arrival at Burberry, his revamped designs made up roughly half of products in stores by the end of the quarter, the company said.

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