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越抵制越热卖:去年伊万卡服装品牌业绩抢眼

Phil Wahba 2017年04月13日

虽然伊万卡的服装品牌屡遭受抵制的威胁,但它去年的销量业绩仍然相当抢眼。

在2016财年(截至2017年1月31日),伊万卡·特朗普服装品牌的批发收入较上年上涨61%,达到4730万美元。以上数据来自G-III服装集团近日发布的年报。G-III是美国最大的成衣生产和进口商,它不仅给这位“第一女儿兼总统顾问”的服装品牌代工,也给Calvin Klein、Dockers、DKNY、Vince Camuto和Tommy Hilfiger等不少美国本土服装品牌提供代工服务。G-III在年报中将伊万卡品牌列入了能为该公司提高商品毛利润的几个品牌之一。不过该数据并不能反映伊万卡品牌在零售层面的销量水平。

美国“第一女儿”这个光环对伊万卡可以说是一把双刃剑。首先,正是由于特朗普的参选直至最终问鼎总统宝座,才令伊万卡这样一个小众品牌为美国公众所熟悉。与此同时,伊万卡之所以成为一个家喻户晓的人物,也是因为她在父亲的竞选活动中扮演了举足轻重的角色。由于此次大选选民的立场两极化严重,伊万卡招致了大量非议。很多人批评伊万卡将大选当成了给品牌打广告的机会。在去年的共和党全国大会上,伊万卡的官方推特发布了一张她登台演讲的照片,配图文字里有在哪能买到“伊万卡演讲同款”衣服的信息。

在近来抵制伊万卡的声浪中,最猛的当属一个叫做“抓紧你的钱包”的草根抵制运动,它还列出了几家销售伊万卡品牌服饰的商场名单,建议消费者予以抵制。

大约两个月前,高端商超品牌诺德斯特龙(Norstrom)曾表示,由于伊万卡品牌销量疲软,诺德斯德龙将下架该品牌。然而现在看来,伊万卡品牌的销量趋势明显与诺德斯特龙的描述相反。除诺德斯特龙以外,品牌折扣店T.J.Maxx也终止了继续经营伊万卡品牌的合约,而内曼马库斯(Neiman Marcus)等零售商更是完全停售该品牌。

目前看来,伊万卡品牌今年的销量如何还是个未知数。今年2月,尽管接连受到诺德斯特龙等零售商超的抵制,伊万卡品牌的销量却逆势迎来了一个小高潮。不过现在,销售伊万卡品牌的零售店毕竟是变少了,而随着伊万卡接受了一个零薪水的总统顾问职位,她也基本上不太可能继续参与品牌的经营活动了。

尽管伊万卡品牌的销量增长相当抢眼,但它在G-III集团的业务中所占的比重依然是微不足道的。上一财年,G-III的公司总销售额达到23.9亿美金,其中伊万卡品牌所占的比重仅有2%。(财富中文网)

译者:朴成奎

Ivanka Trump's apparel saw wholesale revenue rise 61% to $47.3 million in the fiscal year ended Jan. 31, according to the recently released annual report of G-III Apparel Group, which makes clothes for the first daughter and current presidential advisor's company and other brands including Calvin Klein, Dockers, DKNY, Vince Camuto and Tommy Hilfiger. G-III also listed the Ivanka Trump merchandise among brands helping it increase its gross merchandise profit. The dollar figures do not reflect what her merchandise commanded at the retail level.

The election campaign, and subsequent win by her father, President Donald Trump, exponentially increased the niche brand's visibility to the broader public. At the same time, that prominence stemmed in part from her large role in her father's campaign, which polarized large swathes of the electorate and earned her a ton of criticism. The president was accused of misogyny and sexual assault as a candidate. Ivanka Trump herself earned some brickbats for being seen as using the campaign to promote her wares: at the Republican convention last summer, her company tweeted out a picture of her giving a speech and included information on where to could buy the outfit.

One of the most vocal advocates of a boycott of her merchandise had been the grassroots "Grab Your Wallet" campaign, which maintains a list of retailers it recommended shoppers boycott.

Shop Ivanka's look from her #RNC speech: https://t.co/ma42A92DYa #RNCinCLE pic.twitter.com/DwHvSOu8Ue

The Ivanka Trump merchandise's performance stands in contrast to statements from upscale department store Nordstrom (jwn), which two months ago dropped her merchandise, citing weak sales. Other retailers, including TJX Cos' (tax) T.J. Maxx, pulled back on carrying her merchandise and others like Neiman Marcus, dropped it altogether.

Still, it's unclear how well her collection will do this year. It got a bump in February when defenders rallied to her brand in solidarity after the Nordstrom move. But her products are sold in fewer stores now, and Trump herself won't be nearly as involved in the brand's management now that she has taken an unpaid job in the government advising her father.

However impressive the growth, the brand remains tiny within G-III's business: total company sales came to $2.39 billion last fiscal year, or barely 2% of revenue.

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