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从古驰运动鞋到德国汽车,中国制造业加速进军欧洲最负盛名的产业

Mia Osmonbekov
2026-10-13

欧洲企业开始转向那些曾经向它们学习的中国制造商。

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古驰正借助中国制造业的专业能力,生产售价1,000美元的运动鞋;大众汽车则与中国电动汽车制造商小鹏汽车合作开发电动汽车。图片来源:Johannes Neudecker–picture alliance/etty Images

古驰凭借意大利工艺建立起奢侈品牌声誉,但其最新款售价1,000美元的运动鞋打破了其105年来的传统,贴上了“中国制造”的新标签。不过,该时装品牌并未将选择中国工厂归因于长期以来与中国制造联系在一起的低成本劳动力。古驰表示,它选择的是一家以“技术专长”著称、能够达到品牌质量标准的中国制造商。

古驰告诉路透社,公司其他产品仍将在意大利生产。但与过去“中国制造”标签的含义不同,古驰此次转向中国,标志着中国制造业正加速进军欧洲最负盛名的产业,如高端消费品和汽车等。

上海美国商会前会长季恺文对《财富》杂志表示:“我认为,从象征意义上说,中国时代已至。中国不再只是生产廉价商品的地方。”

这种转变被一些经济学家称为“第二次中国冲击”,阿波罗全球管理公司(Apollo Global Management)首席经济学家托尔斯滕·斯洛克就是其中之一。21世纪初第一波“中国冲击”期间,中国制造的廉价服装、家具和电子产品大量涌入西方市场。如今,中国正在出口电动汽车和工业机械,与欧洲老牌制造商展开竞争;与此同时,中国工厂也积累了技术专长,可以为古驰等奢侈品牌生产高端产品。古驰过去三年的销售额已减半,其母公司开云集团(Kering)曾降价应对需求疲软。

瑞士洛桑国际管理发展学院(International Institute for Management Development)管理学教授俞昊对《财富》杂志表示,中国正沿着韩国、中国台湾和日本走过的道路发展,从生产T恤和仿名牌商品,转向家用电器、更高端的汽车和其他产品,而且转型规模“前所未有”。

俞昊表示,中国的许多技术专长来自欧洲。例如,大众汽车(Volkswagen)自20世纪80年代起就在中国造车,“实际上培养了一整代符合西方标准的供应商”。

俞昊表示:“中国供应商一旦具备足够能力,就会想向外拓展,打造自有品牌,以获取更高利润率。”

随着中国制造商从供应商变成竞争对手,欧洲企业陷入尴尬境地。不过,在中国生产的成本仍低于欧洲和东亚。日本贸易机构的一项调查显示,去年中国制造业工人平均月薪为629美元,中国台湾地区为1,341美元,韩国为2,075美元。

德国工业巨头正在节节败退

欧洲国家中,德国对这种转变的感受最为明显。德国是欧洲最大经济体,也是全球第四大经济体。自2019年以来,中国对其他国家的出口结构开始与德国相似:主要是工业机械和汽车。欧洲央行(European Central Bank)经济学家本周早些时候发布的分析显示,德国与中国出口结构的重合度上升幅度超过任何其他欧盟国家。

与此同时,中国从德国购买的商品也在减少。德国联邦统计局数据显示,去年德国对华出口下降9.7%,自中国进口增长8.8%,对华贸易逆差扩大了三分之一。仅德国对华汽车出口,去年就下降了三分之一。

大众汽车就是中国制造能力挑战德国的典型案例。中国市场曾贡献大众汽车一半甚至更多的利润,但如今,这家汽车制造商第二季度在华交付量下降了36.6%。同行梅赛德斯-奔驰(Mercedes-Benz)、宝马(BMW)和保时捷(Porsche)也出现类似下滑。大众还宣布,将把车型阵容最多削减一半,并裁员10万人,这将是公司90年历史上规模最大的一次重组。

中资车企也在欧洲攻城略地。欧洲汽车制造商协会(European Automobile Manufacturers’ Association)数据显示,今年5月,中资车企在欧洲的销量首次超过日本品牌。欧盟试图通过关税保护本土车企:除了10%的汽车标准关税外,还对中国制造的电动汽车电池加征最高35.3%的额外关税。

俞昊表示,向电动汽车转型,也抹去了德国最大的优势:内燃机时代积累的声望。

俞昊表示:“如今,电动汽车已把性能竞争的重点转向电池和软件,而中国在这些领域实力强劲。”

优势只剩高端市场

俞昊住在瑞士,因此每当思考欧洲汽车制造商的未来时,他就会想到手表。

20世纪70年代,日本产廉价而精准的石英表几乎摧毁了瑞士钟表业。俞昊表示,欧米茄(Omega)等幸存品牌退守高端市场,把机械表当作奢侈品销售。但为了生存下来,整个行业不得不收缩。瑞士钟表业从业人数在20世纪60年代峰值约9万人,到80年代中期降至3万人。

他表示,随着中国在这些传统优势领域展开竞争,欧洲未来也可能出现同样的分化。其护城河“如今只存在于最高端市场”。

这让大众汽车等面向大众市场的车企找不到轻松的出路。

俞昊表示:“如果你身处大众市场,比如大众汽车,一年要卖900万辆车,就不可能只退守高端市场。像法拉利(Ferrari)那样小的销量规模,根本无法支撑整个企业生存。”

于是,欧洲企业开始转向那些曾经向它们学习的中国制造商。古驰的Drip运动鞋就符合这一模式:意大利品牌搭配中国技术。大众汽车也已开始行动。2023年,大众斥资7.06亿美元收购中国电动汽车制造商小鹏汽车(Xpeng)近5%的股份,并同意合作开发面向中国市场的汽车。(财富中文网)

译者:刘进龙

审校:汪皓

古驰凭借意大利工艺建立起奢侈品牌声誉,但其最新款售价1,000美元的运动鞋打破了其105年来的传统,贴上了“中国制造”的新标签。不过,该时装品牌并未将选择中国工厂归因于长期以来与中国制造联系在一起的低成本劳动力。古驰表示,它选择的是一家以“技术专长”著称、能够达到品牌质量标准的中国制造商。

古驰告诉路透社,公司其他产品仍将在意大利生产。但与过去“中国制造”标签的含义不同,古驰此次转向中国,标志着中国制造业正加速进军欧洲最负盛名的产业,如高端消费品和汽车等。

上海美国商会前会长季恺文对《财富》杂志表示:“我认为,从象征意义上说,中国时代已至。中国不再只是生产廉价商品的地方。”

这种转变被一些经济学家称为“第二次中国冲击”,阿波罗全球管理公司(Apollo Global Management)首席经济学家托尔斯滕·斯洛克就是其中之一。21世纪初第一波“中国冲击”期间,中国制造的廉价服装、家具和电子产品大量涌入西方市场。如今,中国正在出口电动汽车和工业机械,与欧洲老牌制造商展开竞争;与此同时,中国工厂也积累了技术专长,可以为古驰等奢侈品牌生产高端产品。古驰过去三年的销售额已减半,其母公司开云集团(Kering)曾降价应对需求疲软。

瑞士洛桑国际管理发展学院(International Institute for Management Development)管理学教授俞昊对《财富》杂志表示,中国正沿着韩国、中国台湾和日本走过的道路发展,从生产T恤和仿名牌商品,转向家用电器、更高端的汽车和其他产品,而且转型规模“前所未有”。

俞昊表示,中国的许多技术专长来自欧洲。例如,大众汽车(Volkswagen)自20世纪80年代起就在中国造车,“实际上培养了一整代符合西方标准的供应商”。

俞昊表示:“中国供应商一旦具备足够能力,就会想向外拓展,打造自有品牌,以获取更高利润率。”

随着中国制造商从供应商变成竞争对手,欧洲企业陷入尴尬境地。不过,在中国生产的成本仍低于欧洲和东亚。日本贸易机构的一项调查显示,去年中国制造业工人平均月薪为629美元,中国台湾地区为1,341美元,韩国为2,075美元。

德国工业巨头正在节节败退

欧洲国家中,德国对这种转变的感受最为明显。德国是欧洲最大经济体,也是全球第四大经济体。自2019年以来,中国对其他国家的出口结构开始与德国相似:主要是工业机械和汽车。欧洲央行(European Central Bank)经济学家本周早些时候发布的分析显示,德国与中国出口结构的重合度上升幅度超过任何其他欧盟国家。

与此同时,中国从德国购买的商品也在减少。德国联邦统计局数据显示,去年德国对华出口下降9.7%,自中国进口增长8.8%,对华贸易逆差扩大了三分之一。仅德国对华汽车出口,去年就下降了三分之一。

大众汽车就是中国制造能力挑战德国的典型案例。中国市场曾贡献大众汽车一半甚至更多的利润,但如今,这家汽车制造商第二季度在华交付量下降了36.6%。同行梅赛德斯-奔驰(Mercedes-Benz)、宝马(BMW)和保时捷(Porsche)也出现类似下滑。大众还宣布,将把车型阵容最多削减一半,并裁员10万人,这将是公司90年历史上规模最大的一次重组。

中资车企也在欧洲攻城略地。欧洲汽车制造商协会(European Automobile Manufacturers’ Association)数据显示,今年5月,中资车企在欧洲的销量首次超过日本品牌。欧盟试图通过关税保护本土车企:除了10%的汽车标准关税外,还对中国制造的电动汽车电池加征最高35.3%的额外关税。

俞昊表示,向电动汽车转型,也抹去了德国最大的优势:内燃机时代积累的声望。

俞昊表示:“如今,电动汽车已把性能竞争的重点转向电池和软件,而中国在这些领域实力强劲。”

优势只剩高端市场

俞昊住在瑞士,因此每当思考欧洲汽车制造商的未来时,他就会想到手表。

20世纪70年代,日本产廉价而精准的石英表几乎摧毁了瑞士钟表业。俞昊表示,欧米茄(Omega)等幸存品牌退守高端市场,把机械表当作奢侈品销售。但为了生存下来,整个行业不得不收缩。瑞士钟表业从业人数在20世纪60年代峰值约9万人,到80年代中期降至3万人。

他表示,随着中国在这些传统优势领域展开竞争,欧洲未来也可能出现同样的分化。其护城河“如今只存在于最高端市场”。

这让大众汽车等面向大众市场的车企找不到轻松的出路。

俞昊表示:“如果你身处大众市场,比如大众汽车,一年要卖900万辆车,就不可能只退守高端市场。像法拉利(Ferrari)那样小的销量规模,根本无法支撑整个企业生存。”

于是,欧洲企业开始转向那些曾经向它们学习的中国制造商。古驰的Drip运动鞋就符合这一模式:意大利品牌搭配中国技术。大众汽车也已开始行动。2023年,大众斥资7.06亿美元收购中国电动汽车制造商小鹏汽车(Xpeng)近5%的股份,并同意合作开发面向中国市场的汽车。(财富中文网)

译者:刘进龙

审校:汪皓

Gucci built its luxury reputation on Italian craftsmanship, but its newest $1,000 sneakers break with its 105-year-old tradition with a new label: Made in China. But instead of citing the cheap labor long associated with Chinese factories, the fashion house said it picked a Chinese manufacturer known for its “technological know-how” and ability to meet the brand’s quality standards.

Gucci told Reuters it will keep making its other products in Italy. But unlike the connotation a “Made in China” sticker carried from days of yore, the move to China is the latest signal of Chinese manufacturing moving into Europe’s most storied industries, like high-end consumer goods and cars.

“I think symbolically, China has arrived,” Ker Gibbs, former president of the American Chamber of Commerce in Shanghai, told Fortune. “It’s no longer a place where only cheap stuff gets manufactured and poor quality this and that.”

The shift is part of what some economists, like Apollo Global Management chief economist Torsten Slok, have dubbed the second China Shock. Cheap clothes, furniture, and electronics made in China poured into Western markets in the first wave in the early 2000s. Now, China is exporting electric vehicles and industrial machinery that compete with Europe’s established manufacturers, while its factories have gained the technical expertise to produce high-end goods for luxury brands like Gucci, whose sales have halved in the last three years and whose parent company Kering cut prices to deal with slow demand.

Howard Yu, a professor of management at Switzerland’s International Institute for Management Development, told Fortune China is following the path of South Korea, Taiwan, and Japan in moving from t-shirts and dupes of name brand items to home appliances and higher-end cars and products “at an unprecedented scale.”

Yu said much of China’s know-how came from Europe. Volkswagen, for example, built cars in China since the 1980s, and “essentially has trained up a generation of suppliers to meet Western standards.”

“The moment Chinese suppliers have enough capabilities, then you want to branch out to develop your own brands for better margins,” Yu said.

That has left European companies in an awkward position as Chinese manufacturers move away from being suppliers to being competitors. But it still remains cheaper to make things in China than in Europe and East Asia. Chinese manufacturing workers earned $629 per month on average last year compared to $1,341 in Taiwan and $2,075 in South Korea, according to a survey by Japan’s trade agency.

Germany’s industrial giants are losing ground

No European country has felt this shift more than Germany, the continent’s biggest economy and the fourth largest in the world. Since 2019, the mix of goods China exports to other countries has started to resemble Germany’s: mostly factory machinery and cars. This overlap grew more for Germany than any other EU country, according to an analysis published by European Central Bank economists earlier this week.

At the same time, China is also buying less from Germany. Last year, German exports to China fell 9.7% and imports from China rose 8.8%, according to Germany’s statistics office, with Germany’s trade deficit with China growing by a third. German car exports to China alone fell by a third last year.

Volkswagen is a case study in how China’s manufacturing capacity has challenged Germany. China once supplied half or more of Volkswagen’s profits, but now the carmaker’s deliveries in China fell 36.6% in the second quarter. Peers Mercedes-Benz, BMW and Porsche posted similar losses. Volkswagen also announced it would cut its model lineup by up to half and cut 100,000 jobs—the biggest restructuring in the company’s 90-year history.

Chinese-owned carmakers are also gaining in Europe, where they outsold Japanese brands for the first time in May, according to the European Automobile Manufacturers’ Association. The EU has tried to protect its automakers with 10% standard car tariffs and then slapped on additional tariffs of up to 35.3% on Chinese-made electric vehicle batteries.

Yu said the shift to electric cars also erased Germany’s biggest advantage: the prestige it earned on the internal combustion engine.

“Now electric vehicles have changed the performance dimension towards battery and software, where China is extremely strong,” Yu said.

An edge only at the top

Yu lives in Switzerland, so when he thinks about what will come next for Europe’s carmakers, he thinks about watches.

In the 1970s, cheap and accurate quartz watches from Japan nearly wiped out the Swiss watch industry. Yu said the brands that survived, such as Omega, retreated to the top of the market and sold mechanical watches as luxury objects. But the industry had to shrink to make it. The number of Swiss watch employees fell from about 90,000 in its 1960s peak to 30,000 employees working in watch businesses by the mid-1980s.

He said the same split could be what’s ahead for Europe as China competes in the areas that were once its home turf. Europe’s moat “is now only sitting at the very top end, whereas the middle market has been all but chipped away,” he said.

That leaves mass-market carmakers like Volkswagen with no easy way out.

“If you are in the mass market, such as Volkswagen, selling 9 million cars a year, you cannot retreat to the top end alone,” he said. “The whole enterprise cannot survive on such a small volume, like Ferrari.”

Instead, European companies are turning to the Chinese manufacturers that once learned from them. Gucci’s Drip sneakers fit that pattern by pairing an Italian brand with Chinese know-how. Volkswagen has started, too. In 2023, it paid $706 million for a nearly 5% stake in Chinese electric carmaker Xpeng and agreed to develop cars with it for China.

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