
在意大利艾米利亚-罗马涅大区丘陵地带,一处银行金库内存放着超过50万轮帕尔马干酪,价值远超3亿欧元。
该金库属于艾米利亚诺信贷银行(Credito Emiliano),通常简称为Credem。1953年以来,该银行一直接收尚未熟成的帕尔马干酪轮作为抵押物,向当地奶牛场发放贷款。
然而如今,极端高温正威胁着意大利的“奶酪银行”。研究高温对经济增长影响的专家表示,风险敞口远不止于一座金库,而是波及意大利的葡萄园、橄榄园乃至更广泛的经济领域。
基于区块链的奶酪贷款抵押计划
从奶农手中接收奶酪轮后,Credem子公司Magazzini Generali delle Tagliate会在雷焦艾米利亚和摩德纳的两个仓库中对奶酪进行熟成。生产商通常能提前获得奶酪轮价值的60%至80%。
如今这一流程与20世纪50年代已大不相同。借助区块链技术,即便奶酪存在奶农自家设施内也能抵押,Credem的放贷能力也因此翻倍。这一安排解决了现实问题,因为帕尔马干酪熟成至少需要12个月,通常需要24个月或36个月,小型家庭农场很难在没有现金流的情况下长期积压如此大量库存。因此,银行会在奶酪售出前提供资金支持。
这种奶酪抵押安排的体量远超一座金库。负责该银行奶酪仓库业务的詹卡洛・拉瓦内蒂告诉美国有线电视新闻网(CNN),意大利每年生产约400万轮帕尔马干酪,奶酪银行保管约50万轮。他的仓库每年总共处理约230万轮奶酪。
与此同时,帕尔马干酪产业规模达40亿欧元(约合47亿美元),由约300家认证乳品厂支撑。想要如此大量奶酪保持在合适的温度,成本持续走高。受今年欧洲创纪录热浪冲击,该银行日常能源消耗增加了约30%,被迫升级制冷系统和锅炉,增加隔热层,并扩大可再生能源发电规模。
气候变化也影响到奶农的牛奶供应。由于室外气温过高,奶牛躺卧时间增加,进食减少,牛奶产量每年减少高达10%。随着持续时间更长也更强烈的热浪越发常见,牛奶产量和质量均受到打击,最终推高成本。
气候变化冲击葡萄园
相似的气候压力也同步蔓延到意大利各大葡萄园。在伦巴第大区的弗朗齐亚柯达起泡酒产区,2026年的采摘季7月30日提前开启,创下历史最早纪录,葡萄发芽期也比历史平均水平提前了一周多。西西里岛的采摘期拉长,种植者称受全岛多样微气候影响,采摘季长达百日。生产商要根据各品种特点安排采摘时间,以抢在热浪前完成。
意大利最大的农民协会Coldiretti称,2026年是全国有记录以来最早的采摘季之一。受创纪录高温和干旱影响,葡萄糖分积累速度快于风味发展。这种失衡对晚熟红葡萄品种冲击尤为严重,例如酿造巴罗洛的内比奥罗葡萄。
一些生产商开始在葡萄园上方铺设遮阳网,原本是为防冰雹,现在则是为了减少阳光照射,防止葡萄酸度流失。农民协会Coldiretti还指出,天气因素之外也叠加了额外成本,伊朗冲突导致今年葡萄酒生产商每公顷的能源、化肥和材料成本增加了约250欧元,且2026年前四个月出口额已下降7%。
橄榄园遭受的打击最为惨重。普利亚和卡拉布里亚是意大利最大两个橄榄油产区,全国产量已远低于35万吨的历史平均水平,2025/26产季的产量约为27万至30万吨。在过去干旱年份,普利亚单季产量曾一度腰斩。
宾夕法尼亚大学沃顿商学院(University of Pennsylvania’s Wharton School)劳动经济学家,也是《缓慢燃烧:全球变暖世界隐性成本》(Slow Burn: The Hidden Costs of a Warming World)一书作者罗伯特·朴志成表示,意大利奶酪、葡萄酒和橄榄油行业遭遇的困境符合更广泛的研究结论,即高温会直接导致经济产出损失。
欧洲央行的一篇工作论文指出,由于西班牙和意大利比德国对高温适应性更强,极端高温对两国GDP的冲击小于德国。但朴志成表示,总体数字较小可能掩盖其他地方的真实损害。“上游高温引发的供应链溢出效应,会导致下游企业估值受到可量化的影响,”朴志成接受《财富》采访时表示。
这正是艾米利亚-罗马涅大区发生的情况。高温导致奶牛产奶下降,数月后变成银行的成本压力。而在普利亚,由于春天炎热干燥,橄榄产区数百英里外产业链的产量崩溃。朴志成表示,高温造成的经济损失往往隐藏在间接滞后的影响中,不会集中爆发,这也是企业和政府仍然低估气候变化影响的重要原因。
美国也有奶酪洞穴
政府介入保护奶农应对不可抗力的想法,在美国也并非新鲜事。大萧条时期牛奶价格暴跌,奶农曾将牛奶倒在街上抗议。
富兰克林·D·罗斯福总统的新政应对方式是向主动减产的农民提供补贴,1933年还创建商品信贷公司,用于收购过剩的黄油、奶酪和奶粉以稳定价格。
该政策在大萧条结束后延续了很久。几十年后,政府仍在收购过剩的奶酪,储存在密苏里州、威斯康星州和堪萨斯州巨大的地下洞穴中。仓库环境凉爽,奶酪可以存放数年不变质。
到20世纪80年代初,联邦储备奶酪已超过5亿磅。意大利的奶酪银行则是用不同的工具解决了类似问题。不靠政府收购过剩产品支撑价格,而是由私人银行直接以奶酪本身作为抵押发放贷款,押注放在金库里的奶酪轮熟成上市时仍然有价值。(财富中文网)
译者:梁宇
审校:夏林
在意大利艾米利亚-罗马涅大区丘陵地带,一处银行金库内存放着超过50万轮帕尔马干酪,价值远超3亿欧元。
该金库属于艾米利亚诺信贷银行(Credito Emiliano),通常简称为Credem。1953年以来,该银行一直接收尚未熟成的帕尔马干酪轮作为抵押物,向当地奶牛场发放贷款。
然而如今,极端高温正威胁着意大利的“奶酪银行”。研究高温对经济增长影响的专家表示,风险敞口远不止于一座金库,而是波及意大利的葡萄园、橄榄园乃至更广泛的经济领域。
基于区块链的奶酪贷款抵押计划
从奶农手中接收奶酪轮后,Credem子公司Magazzini Generali delle Tagliate会在雷焦艾米利亚和摩德纳的两个仓库中对奶酪进行熟成。生产商通常能提前获得奶酪轮价值的60%至80%。
如今这一流程与20世纪50年代已大不相同。借助区块链技术,即便奶酪存在奶农自家设施内也能抵押,Credem的放贷能力也因此翻倍。这一安排解决了现实问题,因为帕尔马干酪熟成至少需要12个月,通常需要24个月或36个月,小型家庭农场很难在没有现金流的情况下长期积压如此大量库存。因此,银行会在奶酪售出前提供资金支持。
这种奶酪抵押安排的体量远超一座金库。负责该银行奶酪仓库业务的詹卡洛・拉瓦内蒂告诉美国有线电视新闻网(CNN),意大利每年生产约400万轮帕尔马干酪,奶酪银行保管约50万轮。他的仓库每年总共处理约230万轮奶酪。
与此同时,帕尔马干酪产业规模达40亿欧元(约合47亿美元),由约300家认证乳品厂支撑。想要如此大量奶酪保持在合适的温度,成本持续走高。受今年欧洲创纪录热浪冲击,该银行日常能源消耗增加了约30%,被迫升级制冷系统和锅炉,增加隔热层,并扩大可再生能源发电规模。
气候变化也影响到奶农的牛奶供应。由于室外气温过高,奶牛躺卧时间增加,进食减少,牛奶产量每年减少高达10%。随着持续时间更长也更强烈的热浪越发常见,牛奶产量和质量均受到打击,最终推高成本。
气候变化冲击葡萄园
相似的气候压力也同步蔓延到意大利各大葡萄园。在伦巴第大区的弗朗齐亚柯达起泡酒产区,2026年的采摘季7月30日提前开启,创下历史最早纪录,葡萄发芽期也比历史平均水平提前了一周多。西西里岛的采摘期拉长,种植者称受全岛多样微气候影响,采摘季长达百日。生产商要根据各品种特点安排采摘时间,以抢在热浪前完成。
意大利最大的农民协会Coldiretti称,2026年是全国有记录以来最早的采摘季之一。受创纪录高温和干旱影响,葡萄糖分积累速度快于风味发展。这种失衡对晚熟红葡萄品种冲击尤为严重,例如酿造巴罗洛的内比奥罗葡萄。
一些生产商开始在葡萄园上方铺设遮阳网,原本是为防冰雹,现在则是为了减少阳光照射,防止葡萄酸度流失。农民协会Coldiretti还指出,天气因素之外也叠加了额外成本,伊朗冲突导致今年葡萄酒生产商每公顷的能源、化肥和材料成本增加了约250欧元,且2026年前四个月出口额已下降7%。
橄榄园遭受的打击最为惨重。普利亚和卡拉布里亚是意大利最大两个橄榄油产区,全国产量已远低于35万吨的历史平均水平,2025/26产季的产量约为27万至30万吨。在过去干旱年份,普利亚单季产量曾一度腰斩。
宾夕法尼亚大学沃顿商学院(University of Pennsylvania’s Wharton School)劳动经济学家,也是《缓慢燃烧:全球变暖世界隐性成本》(Slow Burn: The Hidden Costs of a Warming World)一书作者罗伯特·朴志成表示,意大利奶酪、葡萄酒和橄榄油行业遭遇的困境符合更广泛的研究结论,即高温会直接导致经济产出损失。
欧洲央行的一篇工作论文指出,由于西班牙和意大利比德国对高温适应性更强,极端高温对两国GDP的冲击小于德国。但朴志成表示,总体数字较小可能掩盖其他地方的真实损害。“上游高温引发的供应链溢出效应,会导致下游企业估值受到可量化的影响,”朴志成接受《财富》采访时表示。
这正是艾米利亚-罗马涅大区发生的情况。高温导致奶牛产奶下降,数月后变成银行的成本压力。而在普利亚,由于春天炎热干燥,橄榄产区数百英里外产业链的产量崩溃。朴志成表示,高温造成的经济损失往往隐藏在间接滞后的影响中,不会集中爆发,这也是企业和政府仍然低估气候变化影响的重要原因。
美国也有奶酪洞穴
政府介入保护奶农应对不可抗力的想法,在美国也并非新鲜事。大萧条时期牛奶价格暴跌,奶农曾将牛奶倒在街上抗议。
富兰克林·D·罗斯福总统的新政应对方式是向主动减产的农民提供补贴,1933年还创建商品信贷公司,用于收购过剩的黄油、奶酪和奶粉以稳定价格。
该政策在大萧条结束后延续了很久。几十年后,政府仍在收购过剩的奶酪,储存在密苏里州、威斯康星州和堪萨斯州巨大的地下洞穴中。仓库环境凉爽,奶酪可以存放数年不变质。
到20世纪80年代初,联邦储备奶酪已超过5亿磅。意大利的奶酪银行则是用不同的工具解决了类似问题。不靠政府收购过剩产品支撑价格,而是由私人银行直接以奶酪本身作为抵押发放贷款,押注放在金库里的奶酪轮熟成上市时仍然有价值。(财富中文网)
译者:梁宇
审校:夏林
In the hills of Emilia-Romagna, a bank vault holds more than half a million wheels of Parmigiano Reggiano, worth well over 300 million euros.
The vault belongs to the bank Credito Emiliano, known colloquially as Credem, which has long accepted young wheels of Parmigiano Reggiano as collateral for loans to local dairy farms since 1953.
But now, extreme heat is threatening Italy’s “cheese banks,” and economists who study heat’s effect on growth say the exposure runs well beyond a single vault but into the country’s vineyards, its olive groves, and its broader economy.
A blockchain-backed cheese loan collateral program
After receiving the wheels of cheese from dairy farmers, a Credem subsidiary, Magazzini Generali delle Tagliate, ages the wheels in two warehouses in Reggio Emilia and Modena. Producers typically receive 60% to 80% of a wheel’s value upfront.
But the process has come a long way from the 1950s, as blockchain technology now lets farmers pledge wheels even while the cheese stays in their own facilities, doubling Credem’s lending capacity. The arrangement solves a real problem: Parmigiano needs at least 12 months to age, often 24 or 36, and small family farms can’t easily keep that much inventory tied up for that long without generating some cash. So the bank provides some before any sales are made.
The scale of that arrangement is bigger than the vault itself. Italy produces about 4 million wheels of Parmigiano Reggiano a year, and the cheese banks hold about 500,000 of them, Giancarlo Ravanetti, who runs the bank’s cheese warehouse business, told CNN. His warehouses handle about 2.3 million wheels a year in total.
Meanwhile, Parmigiano Reggiano is a 4 billion-euro ($4.7 billion) industry sustained by roughly 300 certified dairies, and keeping that much cheese at the right temperature has gotten more expensive. Thanks to this year’s record heat waves in Europe, daily energy consumption rose about 30%, forcing the bank to upgrade cooling systems and boilers, add insulation, and expand renewable power generation.
Climate change is affecting dairy farmers’ milk supply as well. Because it’s so hot outside, cows lie down more and eat less, reducing milk production by up to 10% a year. As longer and more intense heat events become all the more common, they hit both the quantity and quality of milk, ultimately driving up costs.
Climate change hits the vineyard
The same climate pressure is showing up on a similar timeline in Italy’s vineyards. In Lombardy’s Franciacorta sparkling-wine region, the 2026 harvest began July 30, the earliest start on record, after budbreak came more than a week ahead of the historical average. In Sicily, the harvest has stretched into what growers describe as a hundred-day picking season across the island’s microclimates, as producers time each variety’s picking to stay ahead of the heat.
Coldiretti, Italy’s largest farmers’ association, has called 2026 one of the earliest harvests on record nationally, citing record temperatures and drought that are pushing sugar into the grapes faster than their flavor can develop, a mismatch that’s especially hard on late-ripening reds like the Nebbiolo grape behind Barolo.
Some producers have begun testing shade netting over vineyards, originally used against hail, to cut the sun exposure that would otherwise strip the grapes of acidity. Coldiretti also pointed to a cost layered on top of the weather: the conflict in Iran has added an estimated 250 euros per hectare in energy, fertilizer, and materials costs for wine producers this year, with export values already down 7% in the first four months of 2026.
But olive groves have taken the sharpest hit. Puglia and Calabria, Italy’s two largest olive-oil-producing regions, have seen national production fall well below its historical average of more than 350,000 tons, coming in around 270,000 to 300,000 tons for the 2025/26 season. In past drought years, Puglia’s output has fallen by more than half in a single season.
R. Jisung Park, a labor economist at the University of Pennsylvania’s Wharton School and author of Slow Burn: The Hidden Costs of a Warming World, says the pattern showing up across Italy’s cheese, wine, and olive oil industries fits a wider body of research that links heat directly to lost economic output.
A European Central Bank working paper found that the GDP hit from extreme heat is smaller in Spain and Italy than in Germany, since both countries are more used to high temperatures. But Park said a small top-line number can still hide real damage elsewhere. “Supply chain spillovers due to heat upstream actually lead to measurable downstream firm valuation impacts,” Park told Fortune.
That is close to what’s playing out in Emilia-Romagna, where a heat shock to dairy cows turns into a cost problem for a bank months later, and in Puglia, where a hot, dry spring turns into a production collapse hundreds of miles from where the olives grow. Park said heat’s economic toll tends to hide in these kinds of indirect, delayed effects instead of showing up all at once, which is part of why companies and governments still underprice it the effects of climate change.
The U.S. has its own cheese caves
The idea of a government stepping in to protect dairy farmers from forces beyond their control is not new to the United States either. During the Great Depression, milk prices collapsed and dairy farmers dumped their own product in the street to protest.
President Franklin D. Roosevelt’s New Deal responded with subsidies for farmers who cut production, and in 1933 created the Commodity Credit Corporation to buy up surplus butter, cheese, and dried milk to keep prices stable.
That policy long outlived the Depression. Decades later, the government was still buying surplus cheese and storing it in vast underground caves in Missouri, Wisconsin, and Kansas, warehouses cool enough to hold the cheese for years without spoiling.
By the early 1980s, the federal stockpile topped 500 million pounds. Italy’s cheese banks solve a similar problem with a different tool: instead of a government buying surplus to prop up prices, a private bank lends against the cheese itself, betting that the wheels sitting in its vault will still be worth something by the time they are ready to sell.