
2010年Everlane强势进军服装行业,依托定价和供应链溯源方面的"极致透明"理念,加上主打简约现代美学、讲述产品背后的人物和产地的故事,深受千禧一代喜爱。他们不仅追求时尚的衣橱必备单品,还渴望获得作为负责任消费者的温暖与满足。
那些声称用钱包“投票”的千禧一代,比父辈更重视可持续性、真实性以及企业的社会责任,并且认为这些品质与产品本身的功能性或美观度同等重要。顺应这一时代潮流,Everlane以高于快时尚竞品的价格售出大量产品,并赢得了包括凯鹏华盈(Kleiner Perkins)和科斯拉创投(Khosla)等风投公司,以及路威酩轩集团(LVMH)旗下L Catterton在内的主要投资者的关注。
因此,上周超快时尚品牌希音(Shein,其名称已成为快速消费主义的代名词)以1亿美元的价格(远低于其6亿美元的估值峰值)收购如今深陷困境、负债累累的Everlane的消息引发业界热议,众多专家认为“有意识的消费主义”就此落幕。事实上,这进一步印证了一个愈发清晰的现实:在当今时代,如果缺乏明确的价值主张和存在理由,仅凭道德立场不足以支撑一个品牌取得成功。
Everlane并非唯一一个陷入尴尬境地的道德消费时代的遗存品牌。今年3月,曾因可持续羊毛运动鞋而备受硅谷精英青睐的Allbirds宣布,将以3900万美元(仅为巅峰时期估值的1%)的价格出售给一家品牌管理公司。随后,这家多年来始终将环保理念作为品牌核心叙事与身份标识的运动鞋制造商,又宣布将转型为一家人工智能基础设施公司,令分析师们困惑不已。
另一家诞生于环保意识觉醒时代的植物基食品公司Beyond Meat,曾试图迎合消费者既想品尝肉类美味,又不想面对环境代价或大规模农业生产带来的伦理困扰的需求。这家曾被誉为高科技食品未来先驱的公司,如今营收大幅下滑——消费者要么回归真正的肉类,要么对其高昂的定价望而却步。该公司近期已将名称中的"Meat"字样去掉,并进军蛋白饮料等新领域,以迎合消费者对蛋白类产品日益增长的兴趣。
这三家公司都曾精准把握时代潮流,但似乎忘记了一个基本商业逻辑:企业要想基业长青,产品价值不能只停留在道德层面。
以Everlane为例,其产品不过是做工精良、色调雅致的基础款服装,并无特别之处。该品牌最初的价值主张是,消费者愿意为合乎道德和可持续标准生产的产品支付溢价。但在充满不确定性的“K型经济”下,事实证明许多消费者并不愿为溯源相关的模糊承诺买单。与此同时,优衣库、Quince乃至沃尔玛的部分产品线等拥有相似美学风格的品牌,无需标榜道德理念,已然成为其强劲的竞争对手。
“品牌承诺一旦背离消费者偏好的经济逻辑,其发展便会后劲不足,”弗雷斯特研究公司(Forrester Research)副总裁兼首席分析师迪潘詹·查特吉(Dipanjan Chatterjee)上周在谈及Everlane和Allbirds时写道,“消费者宣称的价值观与实际消费行为出现严重脱节。”他指出,该公司的研究一再表明,对消费者而言,价格、便利性、可靠性和设计等因素比可持续性更为重要。
随着时间推移,消费者愈发质疑“消费能改善世界”的理念。所谓“有意识的消费主义”从未真正正视核心问题:过度消费本身,而全球对服装、鞋类及廉价商品的需求仍在持续攀升。如今许多消费者似乎已意识到,选择“契合上述理念”的运动鞋或汉堡或许能带来道德上的慰藉,却难以推动系统性变革,无法真正化解气候风险、劳工剥削与资源枯竭难题。
这并不意味着消费者不在意环境保护责任,也不关心为他们生产服装和食品的劳动者能否获得公平薪酬——但Everlane事件表明,他们认为道德和可持续生产实践本身不足以支撑产品溢价。(财富中文网)
译者:中慧言-王芳
2010年Everlane强势进军服装行业,依托定价和供应链溯源方面的"极致透明"理念,加上主打简约现代美学、讲述产品背后的人物和产地的故事,深受千禧一代喜爱。他们不仅追求时尚的衣橱必备单品,还渴望获得作为负责任消费者的温暖与满足。
那些声称用钱包“投票”的千禧一代,比父辈更重视可持续性、真实性以及企业的社会责任,并且认为这些品质与产品本身的功能性或美观度同等重要。顺应这一时代潮流,Everlane以高于快时尚竞品的价格售出大量产品,并赢得了包括凯鹏华盈(Kleiner Perkins)和科斯拉创投(Khosla)等风投公司,以及路威酩轩集团(LVMH)旗下L Catterton在内的主要投资者的关注。
因此,上周超快时尚品牌希音(Shein,其名称已成为快速消费主义的代名词)以1亿美元的价格(远低于其6亿美元的估值峰值)收购如今深陷困境、负债累累的Everlane的消息引发业界热议,众多专家认为“有意识的消费主义”就此落幕。事实上,这进一步印证了一个愈发清晰的现实:在当今时代,如果缺乏明确的价值主张和存在理由,仅凭道德立场不足以支撑一个品牌取得成功。
Everlane并非唯一一个陷入尴尬境地的道德消费时代的遗存品牌。今年3月,曾因可持续羊毛运动鞋而备受硅谷精英青睐的Allbirds宣布,将以3900万美元(仅为巅峰时期估值的1%)的价格出售给一家品牌管理公司。随后,这家多年来始终将环保理念作为品牌核心叙事与身份标识的运动鞋制造商,又宣布将转型为一家人工智能基础设施公司,令分析师们困惑不已。
另一家诞生于环保意识觉醒时代的植物基食品公司Beyond Meat,曾试图迎合消费者既想品尝肉类美味,又不想面对环境代价或大规模农业生产带来的伦理困扰的需求。这家曾被誉为高科技食品未来先驱的公司,如今营收大幅下滑——消费者要么回归真正的肉类,要么对其高昂的定价望而却步。该公司近期已将名称中的"Meat"字样去掉,并进军蛋白饮料等新领域,以迎合消费者对蛋白类产品日益增长的兴趣。
这三家公司都曾精准把握时代潮流,但似乎忘记了一个基本商业逻辑:企业要想基业长青,产品价值不能只停留在道德层面。
以Everlane为例,其产品不过是做工精良、色调雅致的基础款服装,并无特别之处。该品牌最初的价值主张是,消费者愿意为合乎道德和可持续标准生产的产品支付溢价。但在充满不确定性的“K型经济”下,事实证明许多消费者并不愿为溯源相关的模糊承诺买单。与此同时,优衣库、Quince乃至沃尔玛的部分产品线等拥有相似美学风格的品牌,无需标榜道德理念,已然成为其强劲的竞争对手。
“品牌承诺一旦背离消费者偏好的经济逻辑,其发展便会后劲不足,”弗雷斯特研究公司(Forrester Research)副总裁兼首席分析师迪潘詹·查特吉(Dipanjan Chatterjee)上周在谈及Everlane和Allbirds时写道,“消费者宣称的价值观与实际消费行为出现严重脱节。”他指出,该公司的研究一再表明,对消费者而言,价格、便利性、可靠性和设计等因素比可持续性更为重要。
随着时间推移,消费者愈发质疑“消费能改善世界”的理念。所谓“有意识的消费主义”从未真正正视核心问题:过度消费本身,而全球对服装、鞋类及廉价商品的需求仍在持续攀升。如今许多消费者似乎已意识到,选择“契合上述理念”的运动鞋或汉堡或许能带来道德上的慰藉,却难以推动系统性变革,无法真正化解气候风险、劳工剥削与资源枯竭难题。
这并不意味着消费者不在意环境保护责任,也不关心为他们生产服装和食品的劳动者能否获得公平薪酬——但Everlane事件表明,他们认为道德和可持续生产实践本身不足以支撑产品溢价。(财富中文网)
译者:中慧言-王芳
When Everlane burst onto the apparel scene in 2010, its “radical transparency” on matters of pricing and sourcing, coupled with its emphasis on a clean, modern aesthetic and storytelling about the people and places behind its product, made it a hit with millennials seeking chic wardrobe basics, along with the warm and fuzzy feeling of being a responsible consumer.
Those millennials professing to “vote” with their dollars placed greater weight on sustainability, authenticity, and companies being good corporate citizens than their elders did and saw such virtues as perhaps just as important as the functionality or beauty of the products themselves. Tapping into that zeitgeist helped Everlane sell a lot of product at higher prices than its fast-fashion counterparts—and win the attention of major investors, including VC firms such as Kleiner Perkins and Khosla, as well as LVMH-backed L Catterton.
So the news last week that Shein—a hyper fast-fashion brand whose name has become synonymous with high-velocity consumerism—bought the now struggling, debt-laden Everlane for $100 million (well below its peak of $600 million), set off a slew of think pieces about the demise of “conscious consumerism.” And indeed, it adds to the mounting evidence that an ethical stance, without a clear value proposition and raison d’être, is not enough for a brand to succeed these days.
Everlane is not the only relic of the ethical consumption era to find itself in ignominious circumstances. In March, Allbirds, once beloved by the Silicon Valley set for its sustainably made wool sneakers, said it would sell itself to a brand management company for $39 million, or 1% of its peak value. Then, after years of making its eco-friendliness the very center of its brand messaging and identity, the sneaker-maker left analysts befuddled with the announcement that it would re-invent itself as an AI infrastructure company.
Another brand to emerge from this era of eco-friendly mindfulness, the plant-based food company Beyond Meat, sought to tap into consumers’ desire for the taste of meat without the guilt of its environmental costs or the ethical tradeoffs of large-scale agriculture. Once touted as a pioneer of the high-tech future of food, it saw revenue plunge as consumers have either decided they prefer real meat or balked at the higher prices Beyond Meat was charging. The company recently dropped “Meat” from its name and entered new categories such as protein drinks to tap into consumers’ growing interest in protein-based products.
All three companies tapped into a zeitgeist, but appear to have forgotten that products have to offer consumers more than a feeling of virtuousness to build an enduring business.
In the case of Everlane, there was nothing particularly special about its generic but well-made clothing in tastefully bland colors. The original proposition was that consumers would be willing to pay more for products made ethically and sustainably. But in an uncertain “K-shaped” economy, it turns out that many shoppers are not going to shell out for vague promises about an item’s origins. Meanwhile, other brands with similar aesthetics—including Uniqlo, Quince or even some lines at Walmart—have become formidable competitors without the virtue-signaling.
“The brands ran out of steam when their promises ran afoul of the economics of consumer preference,” Forrester Research vice president and principal analyst Dipanjan Chatterjee wrote this week about Everlane and Allbirds. “The consumer gap between stated values and revealed behavior became painfully clear.” He noted that his firm’s research has shown time and time again that factors such as price, convenience, reliability, and design are more important to consumers than sustainability.
Over time, shoppers have also grown more skeptical of the idea that they can buy their way to a better world. The promise of conscious consumerism never really grappled with the fact that the core problem is overconsumption itself—and global demand for clothes, shoes, and cheap products has continued to climb. Many consumers now seem to grasp that choosing the “right” sneaker or burger might offer a personal sense of virtue, but it does little to deliver the kind of systemic change needed to tackle climate risk, exploitative labor practices, or the depletion of natural resources.
It’s not that consumers don’t care about environmental stewardship and fair wages for the people that make their clothing and food—but the Everlane saga suggests that they don’t see ethical and sustainable practices, in themselves, as a reason to pay a premium.