马努·雅乌·福菲出生在一个可可种植世家,然而,祖辈传下来的那片土地如今与其说是恩赐,不如说是一种负担。过去一年里,可可价格大幅下跌,导致西非一些仓库里的可可豆腐烂变质;与此同时,全球巧克力制造商却在四处寻找货源,消费者也在苦苦等待供应。
由于收入减少,52岁的加纳农民福菲被迫采取了一项无奈之举:把自己的部分土地租给非法采砂者。随着建筑需求高涨,混凝土所需的砂石价格走高,非法采砂成为一门利润丰厚的生意。
但代价同样沉重:采砂会使土地变得贫瘠。
福菲明知其中的风险,却表示自己几乎别无选择。他表示,近年来,受气候变化等因素影响,可可产量持续下降,从鼎盛时期的每年300袋,降至2025年的50袋。
在加纳和科特迪瓦,与福菲有同样处境的种植户不在少数。这两个国家合计贡献了全球近70%的可可豆供应。随着这种曾经炙手可热的大宗商品价格暴跌,不少农民纷纷把土地改作他用。
作为全球最大的可可生产国,科特迪瓦今年1月不得不从农民手中收购过剩的可可豆库存,并在本周将2026年的可可收购价下调一半以上。
加纳农业工人工会(General Agricultural Workers Union)的前秘书长爱德华·卡拉韦表示,虽然可可豆这类全球大宗商品容易偶尔出现危机,但加纳当局并未做好应对如此大规模危机的准备。
卡拉韦说:“提前准备可以缓解危机的影响,但并不能完全避免危机。”
可可期货从暴涨到暴跌
西非有数十万农民以种植可可为生。在科特迪瓦,可可豆出口占到该国出口总收入的40%;在邻国加纳,这一比例接近15%。
为保护农民免受国际市场价格波动的影响,政府监管机构会在每个种植季开始时设定可可豆固定收购价,大部分可可豆通过政府许可的渠道销售。
然而,继2024年国际市场可可期货价格飙升之后,期货(即以约定价格在未来某一日期购买某种商品的合约)价格一度突破每公吨1.2万美元,创下数十年来新高。但随后由于供过于求,价格又跌至约4,000美元。
价格下跌意味着,如果全球贸易商按原先价格从这两个非洲国家采购可可豆,将会面临亏损。
这导致仓库中积压的大量可可豆开始腐烂,而那些已经把库存卖给政府的农民,却数月没有拿到货款。
农民们称,由于体制性问题,他们并未从最初的价格暴涨中真正获益,而剧烈的价格波动也让一些人决定放弃种植可可。
气候因素也是诱因之一
在科特迪瓦,农民弗朗索瓦·恩格宾走在自家的可可林里,指着树上因病害和降雨不足导致的发黑、干枯的可可豆荚。
他表示,自己也把部分土地以收费方式交给非法采金者使用;由于担心当局的查处,他后来还申请了采矿许可证。
在他的农场里,采矿区占地至少1,000平方米(约1,200平方码),部分区域积满浑浊发黄的污水。
他说:“如今,黄金比可可更赚钱。每克黄金我们可以卖到1,500西非法郎(约2.67美元),而且我们正在准备协商提价。”
科特迪瓦可可农民联盟主席穆萨·科内表示,许多农民都在为农场寻找其他用途,其中包括把土地租给非法采金者。
他说:“可可卖不出去,但农民还要赚钱养家。”
政府急寻对策
加纳已经开始推动放宽价格管制。今年1月,加纳将可可豆固定收购价下调28%,降至每公吨41,392塞地(约3,881美元),旨在让买家更容易接受这一价格。
本周,科特迪瓦也将2026年支付给可可农民的价格下调一半以上,降至每公斤1,200西非法郎(约2.13美元),约合每磅0.97美元。
农民称,算上生产成本后,这次降价让他们的利润空间变得极其微薄。
50岁的加纳可可农民梅西·安蓬萨说:“如果接受现在的价格,我的儿子就不得不辍学。”今年1月,她曾经与其他农民一起前往首都阿克拉,抗议这次降价。
尽管南美和亚洲等其他地区的一些可可生产商已经提高了供应量,但西非仍然占据全球产量的大头。
然而,像福菲这样的农民表示,他们不得不寻找其他谋生方式。
他说:“如果未来10年还继续种可可,我这辈子也赚不到钱。”(财富中文网)
记者阿德塔约在尼日利亚拉各斯报道。
美联社的非洲全球健康与发展报道获得盖茨基金会(Gates Foundation)的资助。所有内容均由美联社独立负责。有关美联社与慈善机构合作的标准、支持方名单及资助报道领域,可参见AP.org。
译者:刘进龙
马努·雅乌·福菲出生在一个可可种植世家,然而,祖辈传下来的那片土地如今与其说是恩赐,不如说是一种负担。过去一年里,可可价格大幅下跌,导致西非一些仓库里的可可豆腐烂变质;与此同时,全球巧克力制造商却在四处寻找货源,消费者也在苦苦等待供应。
由于收入减少,52岁的加纳农民福菲被迫采取了一项无奈之举:把自己的部分土地租给非法采砂者。随着建筑需求高涨,混凝土所需的砂石价格走高,非法采砂成为一门利润丰厚的生意。
但代价同样沉重:采砂会使土地变得贫瘠。
福菲明知其中的风险,却表示自己几乎别无选择。他表示,近年来,受气候变化等因素影响,可可产量持续下降,从鼎盛时期的每年300袋,降至2025年的50袋。
在加纳和科特迪瓦,与福菲有同样处境的种植户不在少数。这两个国家合计贡献了全球近70%的可可豆供应。随着这种曾经炙手可热的大宗商品价格暴跌,不少农民纷纷把土地改作他用。
作为全球最大的可可生产国,科特迪瓦今年1月不得不从农民手中收购过剩的可可豆库存,并在本周将2026年的可可收购价下调一半以上。
加纳农业工人工会(General Agricultural Workers Union)的前秘书长爱德华·卡拉韦表示,虽然可可豆这类全球大宗商品容易偶尔出现危机,但加纳当局并未做好应对如此大规模危机的准备。
卡拉韦说:“提前准备可以缓解危机的影响,但并不能完全避免危机。”
可可期货从暴涨到暴跌
西非有数十万农民以种植可可为生。在科特迪瓦,可可豆出口占到该国出口总收入的40%;在邻国加纳,这一比例接近15%。
为保护农民免受国际市场价格波动的影响,政府监管机构会在每个种植季开始时设定可可豆固定收购价,大部分可可豆通过政府许可的渠道销售。
然而,继2024年国际市场可可期货价格飙升之后,期货(即以约定价格在未来某一日期购买某种商品的合约)价格一度突破每公吨1.2万美元,创下数十年来新高。但随后由于供过于求,价格又跌至约4,000美元。
价格下跌意味着,如果全球贸易商按原先价格从这两个非洲国家采购可可豆,将会面临亏损。
这导致仓库中积压的大量可可豆开始腐烂,而那些已经把库存卖给政府的农民,却数月没有拿到货款。
农民们称,由于体制性问题,他们并未从最初的价格暴涨中真正获益,而剧烈的价格波动也让一些人决定放弃种植可可。
气候因素也是诱因之一
在科特迪瓦,农民弗朗索瓦·恩格宾走在自家的可可林里,指着树上因病害和降雨不足导致的发黑、干枯的可可豆荚。
他表示,自己也把部分土地以收费方式交给非法采金者使用;由于担心当局的查处,他后来还申请了采矿许可证。
在他的农场里,采矿区占地至少1,000平方米(约1,200平方码),部分区域积满浑浊发黄的污水。
他说:“如今,黄金比可可更赚钱。每克黄金我们可以卖到1,500西非法郎(约2.67美元),而且我们正在准备协商提价。”
科特迪瓦可可农民联盟主席穆萨·科内表示,许多农民都在为农场寻找其他用途,其中包括把土地租给非法采金者。
他说:“可可卖不出去,但农民还要赚钱养家。”
政府急寻对策
加纳已经开始推动放宽价格管制。今年1月,加纳将可可豆固定收购价下调28%,降至每公吨41,392塞地(约3,881美元),旨在让买家更容易接受这一价格。
本周,科特迪瓦也将2026年支付给可可农民的价格下调一半以上,降至每公斤1,200西非法郎(约2.13美元),约合每磅0.97美元。
农民称,算上生产成本后,这次降价让他们的利润空间变得极其微薄。
50岁的加纳可可农民梅西·安蓬萨说:“如果接受现在的价格,我的儿子就不得不辍学。”今年1月,她曾经与其他农民一起前往首都阿克拉,抗议这次降价。
尽管南美和亚洲等其他地区的一些可可生产商已经提高了供应量,但西非仍然占据全球产量的大头。
然而,像福菲这样的农民表示,他们不得不寻找其他谋生方式。
他说:“如果未来10年还继续种可可,我这辈子也赚不到钱。”(财富中文网)
记者阿德塔约在尼日利亚拉各斯报道。
美联社的非洲全球健康与发展报道获得盖茨基金会(Gates Foundation)的资助。所有内容均由美联社独立负责。有关美联社与慈善机构合作的标准、支持方名单及资助报道领域,可参见AP.org。
译者:刘进龙
Manu Yaw Fofie was born into the cocoa farming business, but the land bequeathed to him has become more of a burden than a blessing. A sharp fall in cocoa prices over the past year has left beans rotting in some West African warehouses, while global chocolate makers scramble for supplies and consumers seek their fix.
With less money coming in, the 52-year-old Fofie in Ghana has taken the desperate step of giving part of his land to illegal sand miners, a lucrative practice driven by high construction demand since sand is used in concrete.
The cost is severe, however: the sand mining makes the land infertile.
Aware of the danger, Fofie said he had been left with little choice. He said annual cocoa bean yields has been declining over the years, from the past heyday of 300 bags to 50 bags in 2025, affected by factors including climate change.
Fofie is one of many cocoa farmers in Ghana and Ivory Coast — countries responsible for nearly 70% of the global cocoa bean supply — who are putting their land for other uses after the price of the once high-flying commodity crashed.
Ivory Coast, the world’s leading cocoa producer, had to purchase an excess supply of cocoa beans from farmers in January and this week slashed the price by more than half for 2026.
While a global commodity like cocoa beans is prone to occasional crisis, Ghanaian authorities were not prepared for one at this scale, said Edward Karaweh, former general secretary of the General Agricultural Workers Union.
“Preparation allows you to mitigate the crisis. It is not that you prevent the crisis altogether,” Karaweh said.
Cocoa futures soared, then crashed
Hundreds of thousands of farmers in West Africa rely on cocoa farming for a living. In Ivory Coast, cocoa bean exports make up 40% of the total export revenue. In neighboring Ghana, they make up nearly 15%.
Government regulators set a fixed price for the cocoa bean at the beginning of every planting season, and the majority of the beans are sold through government-licensed parties to protect farmers from price fluctuations on the international market.
However, after a surge in cocoa futures in 2024 on international markets, the futures — a contract to buy a commodity at an agreed-upon price on a future date — reached more than $12,000 per metric ton, the highest in decades. Then it crashed to around $4,000 as supply outstripped demand.
The downturn in price meant global traders would run at a loss if they purchased cocoa beans from the two African countries.
That led to a mounting stockpile of rotting cocoa beans in warehouses, while farmers who already sold their stocks to governments have not been paid for months.
With structural issues, farmers said they missed out on benefiting from the original surge. The whiplash in prices made some decide enough was enough.
Climate also plays a role
Walking through his cocoa trees in Ivory Coast, François N’Gbin pointed to blackened, dried-up pods caused by disease and a lack of rain.
He said he also has given up part of his land, for a fee, to illegal gold miners, then obtained a mining license out of fear of the authorities.
The mining area, partly filled with murky, yellowish water, covers at least 1,000 square meters (1,200 square yards) on his farm.
“Today, gold is more profitable than cocoa,” he said. “We get 1,500 CFA francs ($2.67) per gram of gold, and we’re about to negotiate an increase.”
Many other farmers are finding other uses for their farms, including leasing them to illegal gold miners, according to Moussa Koné, president of the Ivorian cocoa farmers’ union.
“Cocoa is not selling, but farmers still need money to feed their families,” he said.
Governments race to find solutions
Ghana has initiated efforts to loosen regulations on price controls, and in January slashed its fixed price for cocoa beans by 28% to 41,392 cedis ($3,881) per metric ton, in an attempt to make the beans more accessible to buyers.
This week, Ivory Coast also slashed the price paid to cocoa farmers by more than half to 1,200 CFA ($2.13) per kilogram ($0.97 per pound) for 2026.
Farmers say the price cut has left their profit margin very slim when they factor in the costs of production.
“Accepting the current price means my son will have to drop out of school,” said Mercy Amponsah, a 50-year-old cocoa farmer in Ghana. Shee was among the farmers who visited the capital, Accra, in January to protest the price cut.
Some cocoa producers elsewhere in the world — South America and Asia — have improved their supply but West Africa still makes up the bulk of production.
Farmers like Fofie say they must find other ways to survive, however.
“If I keep this cocoa farm for the next 10 years, I would die a poor man,” he said.
Adetayo reported from Lagos, Nigeria.
The Associated Press receives financial support for global health and development coverage in Africa from the Gates Foundation. The AP is solely responsible for all content. Find AP’s standards for working with philanthropies, a list of supporters and funded coverage areas at AP.org.