正如丹尼斯·威尔森上个月在财富网站发表的文章《啤酒酿造巨头披上精酿啤酒外衣》（Big Beer dresses up in craft brewers' clothing）所述，2011年精酿啤酒销量增长13%，而同期全美啤酒总销量缩减了大约1.3%。尽管精酿仅仅只是整个市场中很小的一块，但大型啤酒酿造公司也不能无视这些增长数据。
日前，《财富》杂志（Fortune ）采访了SABMiller执行董事长格雷厄姆·麦凯，探讨这家全球第二大啤酒酿造商如何利用大众对精酿啤酒的兴趣发财。精酿啤酒是小型独立酿造商引领的一项运动——“小型”和“独立”都是SABMiller所不具备的特性。为了在精酿啤酒市场中获得一杯羹，MillerCoors（SABMiller和Molson Coors的合资企业）于2010年成立了一块独立的业务，名为Tenth and Blake。这块业务负责蓝月亮（Blue Moon）、Leinenkugels等品牌的运作，并在2012年2月收购了Crispin Cider。以下是经编辑的采访摘要。
There are countless advantages that come with being a massive, multinational enterprise. But sometimes, a big company needs to learn how to act small. Amid the rise of craft beer, this has never been more the case for big brewers.
As Denis Wilson noted on Fortune.com last month in "Big Beer dresses up in craft brewers' clothing," craft beer saw a 13% increase in volume in 2011, while overall U.S. beer sales were down by about 1.3% by volume during that same period. Despite the fact that craft is a very small segment of the market, large beer companies cannot ignore these growth figures.
Fortune recently spoke with Graham Mackay, the executive chairman of SABMiller, about how the world's second-largest brewer is trying to capitalize on the interest in craft beer. It's a movement marked by small, independent brewers -- two things that SABMiller is not. To grab a portion of the craft-drinking segment, MillerCoors (a joint venture of SABMiller and Molson Coors (TAP)) launched a separate division in 2010 called Tenth and Blake. This operation oversees brands like Blue Moon, Leinenkugels, and it acquired Crispin cider in February 2012. The following are edited excerpts of our conversation.
Fortune: What's your global outlook on craft? Is what's happening in the U.S. specific to this country or broader?
Graham Mackay:It's U.S.-specific in the sense that the U.S. had gone in a particular direction of large-scale consolidation, dominance by a relatively small number of big brands, and trends toward less and less flavor, more repeatability, less satiating, and the rise of light beers. The U.S. was not the only one moving in that direction, but it moved furthest in that direction.
What drove that?
The endless quest in the U.S. for repeatability. Obviously, every modern society has a bit of that. Also, the elimination of harsh and intense flavors has been the central sweet spot of the beer industry for decades, if not generations. If you go back 30 or 40 years and look at the formulations for the big brands that still exist, their bitterness levels in the U.S. are 7 to 9 [measured in International Bitterness Units]. Those brands, 30 or 40 year ago, were up at the 17, 18, 19 kind of level. European lagers are somewhere between 20 and 25.
The consumer has gone back to saying, "Let's get a bit of interest, let's have a bit of difference." So, there's been the growth of craft beer. But it's also local, anti-marketing, anti-global, anti-big, and more focused on experience and knowing the brewer who produces it.