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这家天然美妆品牌凭什么对la Mer发起了挑战?

这家天然美妆品牌凭什么对la Mer发起了挑战?

Brittany Shoot 2015年05月06日
真自然本草公司创始人希拉里•彼得森在患癌后,致力于研发一种安全有效的纯天然护肤产品。在45天的实验中,一群40岁以上的女性对比使用该品牌与la Mer的面霜。结果令人震惊,“真自然本草”几乎在每项实验检测中都表现更优,如细纹和褶皱减少、收缩毛孔,缓和泛红和发炎等。

    2014年,“真自然本草”还推出了少量完全不含化合物的固体香水。当“真自然本草”团队和法国一家历史最悠久的香水厂商谈合作时,这家公司很想知道产品研发的预算是多少。但彼得森有一个更好的想法。

    她说:“我宁可这么问:假如什么高档原料都能用的话,香水厂商会用什么?怎样才算是大手笔预算?我们的目标并不是提供奢侈化妆品,而是打造不含毒素、买得起的优秀产品。” 彼得森透露说,由于没有预算约束来决定选择何种原料,这家厂商声称这项合作“纯属做梦”。

    除了“海蓝之谜”,“真自然本草”在纯天然美容产品中还有众多竞争者。如Kari Gran,这是一个和创始人同名、2011年推出的生态友好型美妆品,现在已在丝芙兰化妆品连锁店上架。最近它刚宣布,2014年总收入达到50万美元,同比增长200%。该公司联合创始人兼产品同名人凯丽•戈蓝一直努力治疗一种自身免疫性疾病。像彼得森一样,这种病也曾让她中断自己的职业生涯,并由此产生了打造一款全方位护肤产品的激情。

    随便在环境工作组超过7万种产品、名为“深度护肤”的化妆品数据库里一搜,就能找出不少类似的由女性创立、纯天然环保的护肤产品。

    “真自然本草”从未接受过投资,也没有发布过收入数字。不过,通过网上直销、并在全美选择美容院和温泉浴场进行线下销售等方式,这家公司获得了一笔可观的利润。彼得森表示:“直销是我们的主要销售方式,大约占到80%到90%,我们也打算维持这一比例。”2015年,该公司将推出空气清新剂和系列护发产品。

    彼得森指出:“事实证明,对你有利的东西往往也是奢侈品。你实际上不必选择。”当她费尽心机想推广这种理念却处处碰壁后,她就把目光转向了欧洲国家。她说这些国家更重视预防原则——也就是在某件事成为既成事实前,就该防患于未然。而在美国,情况往往正好相反,那些大型化妆品公司并不想充当生产更安全化妆品和护肤品的先驱。

    她说:“要研发出更安全产品的配方并非易事。但完全做得到。”(财富中文网)

    译者:清远

    审校:任文科

    In 2014, True Nature Botanicals also released a small line of solid fragrances made without any synthetic ingredients. When the TNB team sat down with one of the oldest fragrance houses in France, the perfumers wanted to know what the budget would be. Peterson had a better idea.

    “I would rather say: what would a perfumer use if she could use anything? What would be a luxurious budget?” Peterson asked. “Our goal is not just to offer luxury but to offer the very best products available without toxins.” Without budget constraints determining ingredient choice, Peterson says the perfumer called the collaboration “a dream.”

    Besides La Mer, True Nature Botanicals has competitors in the all-natural beauty products. For example, Kari Gran, an eponymous eco-friendly skincare line that launched in 2011 and is now stocked by Sephora, just announced 2014 year-end gross revenue of $500,000, a 200% YOY increase. The company’s co-founder and namesake, Kari Gran, battled an autoimmune disorder that, like Peterson, gave her the same pause and passion to create a holistic skincare solution.

    Even a simple search on the Environmental Working Group’s Skin Deep cosmetics database of more than 70,000 products brings up a handful of similar all-natural, woman-founded, environmentally conscious skincare lines.

    True Nature Botanicals has never accepted investor funding and doesn’t release revenue numbers. But the company makes a tidy profit by focusing on selling direct to consumers online and through select partner salons and spas around the country. “Eighty to ninety percent of our business is direct, and we plan to maintain that ratio,” says Peterson. In 2015, the company will launch room mist and hair care product lines.

    “It turns out what’s good for you is also luxurious. You don’t have to choose,” Peterson notes. When she’s frustrated trying to get her message across, she looks to European countries, where she says there’s more respect for the precautionary principle—the idea that until something has been tested, it should be avoided. In the U.S., the opposite is often true, and major beauty companies aren’t going to be the ones leading the charge for safer cosmetics and skincare products.

    “It’s not easy to formulate safer products,” she says. “But it’s doable.”

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