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亚洲奢侈品销售陷入停滞,开云集团罕见发布盈利预警

亚洲奢侈品销售陷入停滞,开云集团罕见发布盈利预警

Prarthana Prakash 2024-03-22
开云集团旗下最大的品牌古驰在今年第一季度的收入可能同比下降20%。

古驰的母公司开云集团在今年年初发布了奢侈品销售下滑的警告。图片来源:HORACIO VILLALOBOS—CORBIS/GETTY IMAGES

新冠疫情时期的奢侈品热潮已经褪去,该行业的知名企业出现销售下滑。

最新遭受损失的是古驰(Gucci)和圣罗兰(Yves Saint Laurent)的法国母公司开云集团(Kering)。

在开云集团公布今年第一季度财报的前一个月,该公司罕见地发布了一份悲观的报告,称其销售额将比2023年下降约10%。如果放大来看,情况就会更糟,开云集团旗下最大的品牌古驰在今年第一季度的收入可能同比下降20%。

对于该公司来说,跌幅巨大,但考虑到这家法国奢侈品零售商今年的艰难处境,这再正常不过了。

开云集团表示,奢侈品需求停滞,尤其是在亚太地区,这是造成销售额意想不到的下降的原因。

奢侈品需求放缓已引起广泛讨论,而且这一趋势的案例也层出不穷。中国消费者需求放缓一直是所有奢侈品牌面临的共同问题。尽管中国消费出现了复苏的初步迹象,但结果并不尽如人意。

撇开亚洲的奢侈品需求不谈,包括法国企业集团路威酩轩集团(LVMH)和手袋制造商爱马仕(Hermes)在内的大公司,在经历了最初的挫折后,都成功地摆脱了低迷。但其他公司的表现就差强人意了。

以博柏利(Burberry)为例,这家英国风衣公司最近的销售额有所下滑。今年1月,该公司下调了全年利润预期,原因是在通常奢侈品销售火爆的假日旺季,市场需求不振。开云集团的警告再次表明,奢侈品行业离复苏还有很长的路要走,更不用说重新进入繁荣期了。

英国伦敦时间3月20日中午12点,这家总部位于巴黎的奢侈时尚巨头的股价下跌了13.6%。

开云集团的代表没有立即回复《财富》杂志的置评请求。

重振古驰品牌

开云集团在上个月的年度报告中指出,由于宏观经济压力和其为提升古驰品牌而进行的投资,2024年仍将是充满挑战的一年。

这个占到开云集团年销售额一半的标志性品牌,因为其竞争对手在消费者挥金如土购买奢侈品时大举进攻而受到影响,失去了宝贵的业务和市场份额。

GAM Investments旗下的GAM Luxury Brands投资策略(GAM Luxury Brands Investment Strategy)的联席投资经理弗拉维奥·塞雷达在今年2月发给《财富》杂志的一份报告里称:“古驰品牌在高价值的富裕消费者中没有产生足够的共鸣,因为它从未被迫、也从未设法缩小差距。”

汇丰银行(HSBC)的分析师在开云集团2月发布全年业绩后的一份报告中写道:“在过去的四年里,古驰一直受困于新冠疫情期间为保护利润而做出的决定,而不是像该行业的其他主要企业那样投资于市场营销以促进增长。这一战略转变受到了投资者的欢迎。”

然而,转变可能即将到来。古驰在新的管理层和创意总监萨巴托·德·萨尔诺的领导下正在进行转型。他设计的安可拉红(Ancora)系列已经于上月在部分门店发售,预计将为古驰的未来发展指明方向。

分析师强调,奢侈品行业目前也进入了标准化时期,这意味着今年上半年将显得平淡无奇,尤其是与2023年同期相比。

塞雷达说:“古驰确实有巨大的潜力:强大的供应链、雄厚的传统基础、遍布全球的零售网络,以及可观的现金流。但目前明显缺乏短期催化剂。”(财富中文网)

译者:中慧言-王芳

新冠疫情时期的奢侈品热潮已经褪去,该行业的知名企业出现销售下滑。

最新遭受损失的是古驰(Gucci)和圣罗兰(Yves Saint Laurent)的法国母公司开云集团(Kering)。

在开云集团公布今年第一季度财报的前一个月,该公司罕见地发布了一份悲观的报告,称其销售额将比2023年下降约10%。如果放大来看,情况就会更糟,开云集团旗下最大的品牌古驰在今年第一季度的收入可能同比下降20%。

对于该公司来说,跌幅巨大,但考虑到这家法国奢侈品零售商今年的艰难处境,这再正常不过了。

开云集团表示,奢侈品需求停滞,尤其是在亚太地区,这是造成销售额意想不到的下降的原因。

奢侈品需求放缓已引起广泛讨论,而且这一趋势的案例也层出不穷。中国消费者需求放缓一直是所有奢侈品牌面临的共同问题。尽管中国消费出现了复苏的初步迹象,但结果并不尽如人意。

撇开亚洲的奢侈品需求不谈,包括法国企业集团路威酩轩集团(LVMH)和手袋制造商爱马仕(Hermes)在内的大公司,在经历了最初的挫折后,都成功地摆脱了低迷。但其他公司的表现就差强人意了。

以博柏利(Burberry)为例,这家英国风衣公司最近的销售额有所下滑。今年1月,该公司下调了全年利润预期,原因是在通常奢侈品销售火爆的假日旺季,市场需求不振。开云集团的警告再次表明,奢侈品行业离复苏还有很长的路要走,更不用说重新进入繁荣期了。

英国伦敦时间3月20日中午12点,这家总部位于巴黎的奢侈时尚巨头的股价下跌了13.6%。

开云集团的代表没有立即回复《财富》杂志的置评请求。

重振古驰品牌

开云集团在上个月的年度报告中指出,由于宏观经济压力和其为提升古驰品牌而进行的投资,2024年仍将是充满挑战的一年。

这个占到开云集团年销售额一半的标志性品牌,因为其竞争对手在消费者挥金如土购买奢侈品时大举进攻而受到影响,失去了宝贵的业务和市场份额。

GAM Investments旗下的GAM Luxury Brands投资策略(GAM Luxury Brands Investment Strategy)的联席投资经理弗拉维奥·塞雷达在今年2月发给《财富》杂志的一份报告里称:“古驰品牌在高价值的富裕消费者中没有产生足够的共鸣,因为它从未被迫、也从未设法缩小差距。”

汇丰银行(HSBC)的分析师在开云集团2月发布全年业绩后的一份报告中写道:“在过去的四年里,古驰一直受困于新冠疫情期间为保护利润而做出的决定,而不是像该行业的其他主要企业那样投资于市场营销以促进增长。这一战略转变受到了投资者的欢迎。”

然而,转变可能即将到来。古驰在新的管理层和创意总监萨巴托·德·萨尔诺的领导下正在进行转型。他设计的安可拉红(Ancora)系列已经于上月在部分门店发售,预计将为古驰的未来发展指明方向。

分析师强调,奢侈品行业目前也进入了标准化时期,这意味着今年上半年将显得平淡无奇,尤其是与2023年同期相比。

塞雷达说:“古驰确实有巨大的潜力:强大的供应链、雄厚的传统基础、遍布全球的零售网络,以及可观的现金流。但目前明显缺乏短期催化剂。”(财富中文网)

译者:中慧言-王芳

The luxury boom of the pandemic era has turned into a bust, hurting some of the industry’s most prominent players.

The latest victim is Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent’s French owner, Kering.

In a rare and ominous note issued a month ahead of Kering’s first quarter results for the year, the company flagged that its sales will decline by roughly 10% compared to 2023. It gets worse if you zoom in—Kering’s biggest brand, Gucci, could see revenue decline by 20% year-over-year in the first quarter.

That’s a steep drop for the company—but it isn’t a huge anomaly given the rough year the French luxury retailer had.

Kering cited the stalling demand for luxury goods, particularly in the Asia-Pacific region, as the reason for the unexpected drop.

The luxury slowdown has been widely discussed, and many examples of the trend have emerged. Demand from Chinese shoppers has been a shared trouble for all luxury brands as they were banking on the rebound of its economy to spur more high-end spending. That hasn’t played out like brands had hoped, although there are initial signs of recovery.

Asia’s luxury appetite aside, big players, including French conglomerate LVMH and bag maker Hermes, have managed to defy a slump after initial stumbles. But others haven’t fared nearly as well.

Take Burberry, for example—the British trench-coat company has seen sales dip in recent times. In January, it lowered its full-year profit forecast after seeing lackluster demand during the peak holiday season, when luxury sales are typically booming. Kering’s warning reaffirms that the luxury industry is still miles away from seeing a recovery—let alone another boom.

The Paris-based luxury fashion giant’s shares were down 13.6% on March 20 at 12 noon London time.

Representatives at Kering didn’t immediately return Fortune’s request for comment.

Reigniting the Gucci brand

In its annual report last month, Kering flagged that 2024 would remain a challenging year due to macroeconomic pressures and its investments to bolster the Gucci brand.

The iconic label, responsible for half of Kering’s annual sales, suffered as its rivals bolted forward when consumers splurged on luxury, losing valuable business and market share.

“Gucci does not resonate enough with the more valuable affluent consumers because it never really had to and never managed to close the gap,” Flavio Cereda, co-investment manager of the GAM Luxury Brands Investment Strategy at GAM Investments, said in a February note sent to Fortune.

“In the last 4 years, Gucci has been suffering from decisions taken during the pandemic to protect margins instead of investing in marketing to fuel growth as other key players did in the sector. This strategy reversal has been welcomed by investors,” HSBC analysts wrote in a note following Kering’s full-year results released in February.

However, change may be on the horizon. Gucci is in the midst of a transformation under a new management and creative director, Sabato De Sarno. His “Ancora” collection has been available at select stores since last month, and is expected to help chart Gucci’s path forward.

The luxury industry has also entered a period of normalization now, the analysts highlighted, which means the first half of the year will seem dull, especially when compared to the same period a year ago.

“Gucci does have significant potential: the supply chain is strong, the heritage is very solid, the retail network is global and cash generation is still meaningful. But there is no obvious short-term catalyst at this time,” Cereda said.

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