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疫情重击服装业,卡戴珊家的网红效应也不灵了

疫情重击服装业,卡戴珊家的网红效应也不灵了

骆杰峰(Jeff John Roberts) 2020年10月16日
公司必须擅长“转向”,尤其要善于倾听客户不断变化的喜好,才可以度过疫情的难关。

疫情时代,许多人将办公室和外出时穿的衣服束之高阁,换上了汗衫拖鞋,这让服装制造商步履维艰。Stitch Fix、Good American等公司也面临着同样的挑战,前者的业务是为顾客寄送造型师挑选的服饰,后者则是科勒•卡戴珊开设的女士牛仔服装品牌。

在《财富》杂志“最具影响力的新一代女性”(Most Powerful Women Next Gen)峰会上,Stitch Fix的总裁伊丽莎白•斯波尔丁发表讲话称,新冠疫情致使公司“努力向休闲和运动休闲服饰转型”,贴近大多数人的全新生活方式。

斯波尔丁承认,Stitch Fix境况不佳,今年6月无奈裁员1400人,不过公司目前正在逐步复苏。她还表示,公司在8月的增长率达到了2017年上市以来的最高水平,如果不是供应链中断,公司近期本可以扭亏为盈。

与此同时,新冠疫情爆发重挫了Good American推出泳装系列的雄心。不过,疫情也意外促进了Good American的市场销售。女性开始把Good American牛仔裤称为“隔离牛仔裤”,因为它的设计能够适应女性不断变化的体型。

Good American的首席执行官艾玛•格雷德告诉网络听众,公司必须擅长“转向”,尤其要善于倾听客户不断变化的喜好,才可以度过疫情的难关。

鲜花配送服务Farmgirl Flowers的首席执行官克里斯蒂娜•斯特姆贝尔则指出,新冠疫情给个人带来的影响尤其大,她不仅不得不让数百名工人暂时停工,自己还患上了新冠肺炎,度过了艰难的六周。此番遭遇促使斯特姆贝尔为公司所有员工提供了每两周一次的新冠病毒检测。事实证明,这很昂贵,但她认为这是创造安全工作场所的必要措施。

也有从新冠疫情中获益的首席执行官:妮可•吉本斯的公司Clare为顾客提供房屋油漆订购服务。疫情期间,随着房屋DIY需求增长,Clare也获益不少。不过与此同时,吉本斯也需要做出一些艰难的抉择,例如在不确定因素过多的情况下,放弃租赁办公室以节省资金。

吉本斯还谈到了公司今年面临的另一项重要挑战:种族问题。作为一名黑人首席执行官,吉本斯表示,许多公司只发布了一系列相同的声明,而她在社交媒体上努力提供了不少资源和想法。(财富中文网)

译者:钱功毅

疫情时代,许多人将办公室和外出时穿的衣服束之高阁,换上了汗衫拖鞋,这让服装制造商步履维艰。Stitch Fix、Good American等公司也面临着同样的挑战,前者的业务是为顾客寄送造型师挑选的服饰,后者则是科勒•卡戴珊开设的女士牛仔服装品牌。

在《财富》杂志“最具影响力的新一代女性”(Most Powerful Women Next Gen)峰会上,Stitch Fix的总裁伊丽莎白•斯波尔丁发表讲话称,新冠疫情致使公司“努力向休闲和运动休闲服饰转型”,贴近大多数人的全新生活方式。

斯波尔丁承认,Stitch Fix境况不佳,今年6月无奈裁员1400人,不过公司目前正在逐步复苏。她还表示,公司在8月的增长率达到了2017年上市以来的最高水平,如果不是供应链中断,公司近期本可以扭亏为盈。

与此同时,新冠疫情爆发重挫了Good American推出泳装系列的雄心。不过,疫情也意外促进了Good American的市场销售。女性开始把Good American牛仔裤称为“隔离牛仔裤”,因为它的设计能够适应女性不断变化的体型。

Good American的首席执行官艾玛•格雷德告诉网络听众,公司必须擅长“转向”,尤其要善于倾听客户不断变化的喜好,才可以度过疫情的难关。

鲜花配送服务Farmgirl Flowers的首席执行官克里斯蒂娜•斯特姆贝尔则指出,新冠疫情给个人带来的影响尤其大,她不仅不得不让数百名工人暂时停工,自己还患上了新冠肺炎,度过了艰难的六周。此番遭遇促使斯特姆贝尔为公司所有员工提供了每两周一次的新冠病毒检测。事实证明,这很昂贵,但她认为这是创造安全工作场所的必要措施。

也有从新冠疫情中获益的首席执行官:妮可•吉本斯的公司Clare为顾客提供房屋油漆订购服务。疫情期间,随着房屋DIY需求增长,Clare也获益不少。不过与此同时,吉本斯也需要做出一些艰难的抉择,例如在不确定因素过多的情况下,放弃租赁办公室以节省资金。

吉本斯还谈到了公司今年面临的另一项重要挑战:种族问题。作为一名黑人首席执行官,吉本斯表示,许多公司只发布了一系列相同的声明,而她在社交媒体上努力提供了不少资源和想法。(财富中文网)

译者:钱功毅

The pandemic era has been tough on clothing makers as many people trade in their office and going-out clothes for sweats and slippers. This challenge has extended to the likes of Stitch Fix, which sends outfits to customers' homes picked by a stylist, and Good American, a company backed by Khloe Kardashian that specializes in women's denim.

Speaking at Fortune's Most Powerful Women Next Gen summit, Stitch Fix president Elizabeth Spaulding said the pandemic has led the company to "lean hard into casual wear and athleisure" to reflect many people's new lifestyle.

Spaulding also acknowledged that Stitch Fix has faced hard times that required it to lay off 1,400 employees in June, but said the company is recovering. She said its recent earnings would have been positive but for supply chain disruptions, and that August saw Stitch Fix's highest rate of growth since the company went public in 2017.

Good American, meanwhile, saw the COVID outbreak put a major kink into its ambitions to launch a swimwear line. But the pandemic also brought an unexpected marketing boost as women began to refer to its denim pants—which are designed to adapt to women's changing bodies—as "quarantine jeans."

The company's CEO, Emma Grede, told the virtual audience that navigating the pandemic has required the retailer to be good at "pivoting" and, especially, to listen to its customers' changing preferences.

For Christina Stembel, the CEO of bouquet delivery service Farmgirl Flowers, the pandemic has been especially personal—not only did she have to furlough hundreds of workers, but she had to battle the disease herself over the course of six hard weeks. She has responded in part by providing biweekly COVID tests for all of the company's employees—a process that has proved expensive, but one she feels is essential to providing a safe workplace.

One CEO who saw a benefit from the pandemic was Nicole Gibbons, whose company Clare lets consumers order paint for their homes. While Clare has benefited from the uptick in DIY during the pandemic, Gibbons has also had to make tough choices, including giving up the company's office lease to preserve capital amid broad uncertainty.

Gibbons also addressed the other major challenge companies have faced this year: race. As a Black CEO, Gibbons said she has made an extra effort to provide resources and ideas on social media at a time when many companies have done little more than issue the same series of statements.

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