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纪念皮尔·卡丹,第一位在中国办秀的西方设计师

纪念皮尔·卡丹,第一位在中国办秀的西方设计师

美联社  2020年12月30日
传奇服装设计师皮尔•卡丹去世,享年98岁。

1995年,法国时尚大师皮尔•卡丹(Pierre Cardin)坐在他在法国巴黎的办公桌前。图片来源:Francis Apesteguy-Getty Images

本周二,法国美术学院宣布著名设计师皮尔•卡丹(Pierre Cardin)逝世,享年98岁。上世纪60年代,卡丹标志性的“太空时代”风格将其推至时尚之巅,大到家居床单、小到随身腕表,当时的各类流行物品几乎都和卡丹有关。

上世纪70至80年代是卡丹的全盛期,成千上万印有“卡丹”签名的商品在全球约10万余家门店内同步发售。

然而卡丹之热并不长久。由于风格单一,卡丹的产品在后期被冠以“廉价货”之名,服装销量急剧下降,还常常被嘲讽“过时得可笑”。

除了设计师身份,卡丹还是一位精明的商人,凭借自己的时尚帝国在巴黎积攒下了巨额财富及顶级地产,其中就包括他经常光顾的“美好时代”(Belle Epoque)餐馆。

自1992年来,卡丹一直都是法国美术学院的核心成员,但该学院在周二发布讣告时并没有解释卡丹的死因,也未说明他在何时何地死亡。

回顾卡丹的生平,从20世纪50年代开始,他便与法国设计师安德烈•库雷热(Andre Courreges)及西班牙设计师帕科•拉巴尼(Paco Rabanne)三人一起,彻底颠覆了时尚界。

当其他巴黎品牌都痴迷于美化女性身材时,卡丹却把穿着者定义为“衣架”,以展显服装的独特版型及图案。他的设计既非实用主义,也非全然为了观赏,而是一种纯粹的“气场”。

卡丹设计的长袍和紧身衣由荧光氨纶制成,在腰部、手肘、手腕和膝盖处都装有塑料箍,以分离身体和衣物。卡丹的泡泡裙和披肩则都为球形,织物材料温柔地包裹着穿着者。另外还有飞碟式及水桶式的镂空帽,可以说,卡丹一次次刷新着大众对于时尚的定义。

1970年,卡丹在接受法国电视台采访时说:“在前人和后者看来,时尚总是荒谬的。但在当下,它是令人惊叹的。”

1922年7月7日,卡丹出生于意大利威尼斯附近的一个小镇,一个普通的工人阶级家庭。在孩童时期,他随家人一起搬到法国中部的圣艾蒂安市(Saint Etienne)。卡丹在那里接受教育,并在14岁时成了为一名裁缝学徒。

后来,卡丹逐渐接受了自己“白手起家者”的身份。在上文提到的那次1970年的采访中,他说,单枪匹马地在这一行业奋斗能让人“看到生活更真实的一面”,并“迫使你做出决定,把你磨炼得越来越勇敢”。

他说:“独自闯入一片前路未知的黑暗森林,要比走在已知的通途上困难得多。”

移居巴黎后,他于1945年开始在著名的帕奎因时装屋(House of Paquin)担任助理,还曾为让•科克托(Jean Cocteau)等导演设计戏服。卡丹还参与了科克托在1946年所拍摄的热门电影《美女与野兽》的服装制作。

在与艾尔莎•夏帕瑞丽(Elsa Schiaparelli)和克里斯汀•迪奥(Christian Dior)等著名设计师短暂地合作之后,卡丹在巴黎最繁华的第一区开设了自己的服装公司,从设计服饰和面具开始。

1953年,卡丹举办了自己的第一场时装秀,并迅速获得了巨大的成功。1954年,他推出了著名的“泡泡”连衣裙,并使这一款式成为经典,流传至今。

1959年,卡丹在著名的巴黎春天百货商店上演了他的首场成衣秀——这项创举在当时看来过于大胆,甚至使他暂时被逐出巴黎高级时装联合会(Chambre Syndicale)——法国的时尚管理机构。卡丹与这一组织的关系本就不合,后来他选择离开,以自己的方式举办时装秀。

卡丹与法国的国宝级女演员让娜•莫罗(Jeanne Moreau)的高调恋情也让他的品牌名声大噪。一部《祖与占》让这位化着烟熏妆、一头金发的女明星名声大噪,也提升了卡丹品牌的知名度。双方将这段持续了大约五年的恋情称为“真爱”,但他们从未结婚。

卡丹将生产高级时装系列所需的天价开支视为一项投资。即使这些高级定制时装售价高昂,却仍不足以覆盖其手工制作的成本,但他的高定时装秀在媒体上获得了相当大的曝光度,也带动了他的品牌中那些价格较低的物品的销量,例如帽子,皮带和袜子。

随着卡丹的声名鹊起,他投资的房产也一路飙升。长期以来,卡丹和妹妹住在巴黎爱丽舍宫总统府对面宽敞的公寓里,但他们的生活如僧侣般简朴。一些时尚界人士看到他买下附近这么多顶级不动产,纷纷打趣说卡丹可能要发动一场政变。

除了女装和男装精品店外,卡丹还拥有一家儿童用品店、一家家具店和位于巴黎市中心的卡丹艺术中心(Espace Cardin)。卡丹艺术中心是一座宽敞的礼堂,设计师可以在这里举办时装表演、戏剧、芭蕾和其他文化活动。

除了时装以外,卡丹还涉足香水、化妆品、瓷器、巧克力等领域,并投资了法国南部的度假胜地和马克西姆酒吧(Maxim's),人们经常能看到他在这家酒吧吃午饭。

20世纪70年代,卡丹进行了大规模的公司扩张,门店数量达到10万多家。

卡丹率先认识到亚洲在时尚行业的重要地位——它既是一个制造业中心,也具有巨大的消费潜力。

他从60年代初开始在日本工作,并于1979年成为第一位在中国举办时装秀的西方设计师。

1986年,卡丹与苏联当局签订协议,在该国开设展室并销售其在当地生产的服装。

由于没有法定继承人,卡丹在晚年时分解了他的庞大帝国。在2009年,他把几十张在中国的许可证卖给了两家当地公司。

两年后,卡丹告诉《华尔街日报》,愿意以14亿美元的价格出售自己的整个公司,当时该公司拥有大约500-600张许可证。(财富中文网)

编译:陈怡轩 陈聪聪 冯雨涵

本周二,法国美术学院宣布著名设计师皮尔•卡丹(Pierre Cardin)逝世,享年98岁。上世纪60年代,卡丹标志性的“太空时代”风格将其推至时尚之巅,大到家居床单、小到随身腕表,当时的各类流行物品几乎都和卡丹有关。

上世纪70至80年代是卡丹的全盛期,成千上万印有“卡丹”签名的商品在全球约10万余家门店内同步发售。

然而卡丹之热并不长久。由于风格单一,卡丹的产品在后期被冠以“廉价货”之名,服装销量急剧下降,还常常被嘲讽“过时得可笑”。

除了设计师身份,卡丹还是一位精明的商人,凭借自己的时尚帝国在巴黎积攒下了巨额财富及顶级地产,其中就包括他经常光顾的“美好时代”(Belle Epoque)餐馆。

自1992年来,卡丹一直都是法国美术学院的核心成员,但该学院在周二发布讣告时并没有解释卡丹的死因,也未说明他在何时何地死亡。

回顾卡丹的生平,从20世纪50年代开始,他便与法国设计师安德烈•库雷热(Andre Courreges)及西班牙设计师帕科•拉巴尼(Paco Rabanne)三人一起,彻底颠覆了时尚界。

当其他巴黎品牌都痴迷于美化女性身材时,卡丹却把穿着者定义为“衣架”,以展显服装的独特版型及图案。他的设计既非实用主义,也非全然为了观赏,而是一种纯粹的“气场”。

卡丹设计的长袍和紧身衣由荧光氨纶制成,在腰部、手肘、手腕和膝盖处都装有塑料箍,以分离身体和衣物。卡丹的泡泡裙和披肩则都为球形,织物材料温柔地包裹着穿着者。另外还有飞碟式及水桶式的镂空帽,可以说,卡丹一次次刷新着大众对于时尚的定义。

1970年,卡丹在接受法国电视台采访时说:“在前人和后者看来,时尚总是荒谬的。但在当下,它是令人惊叹的。”

1922年7月7日,卡丹出生于意大利威尼斯附近的一个小镇,一个普通的工人阶级家庭。在孩童时期,他随家人一起搬到法国中部的圣艾蒂安市(Saint Etienne)。卡丹在那里接受教育,并在14岁时成了为一名裁缝学徒。

后来,卡丹逐渐接受了自己“白手起家者”的身份。在上文提到的那次1970年的采访中,他说,单枪匹马地在这一行业奋斗能让人“看到生活更真实的一面”,并“迫使你做出决定,把你磨炼得越来越勇敢”。

他说:“独自闯入一片前路未知的黑暗森林,要比走在已知的通途上困难得多。”

移居巴黎后,他于1945年开始在著名的帕奎因时装屋(House of Paquin)担任助理,还曾为让•科克托(Jean Cocteau)等导演设计戏服。卡丹还参与了科克托在1946年所拍摄的热门电影《美女与野兽》的服装制作。

在与艾尔莎•夏帕瑞丽(Elsa Schiaparelli)和克里斯汀•迪奥(Christian Dior)等著名设计师短暂地合作之后,卡丹在巴黎最繁华的第一区开设了自己的服装公司,从设计服饰和面具开始。

1953年,卡丹举办了自己的第一场时装秀,并迅速获得了巨大的成功。1954年,他推出了著名的“泡泡”连衣裙,并使这一款式成为经典,流传至今。

1959年,卡丹在著名的巴黎春天百货商店上演了他的首场成衣秀——这项创举在当时看来过于大胆,甚至使他暂时被逐出巴黎高级时装联合会(Chambre Syndicale)——法国的时尚管理机构。卡丹与这一组织的关系本就不合,后来他选择离开,以自己的方式举办时装秀。

卡丹与法国的国宝级女演员让娜•莫罗(Jeanne Moreau)的高调恋情也让他的品牌名声大噪。一部《祖与占》让这位化着烟熏妆、一头金发的女明星名声大噪,也提升了卡丹品牌的知名度。双方将这段持续了大约五年的恋情称为“真爱”,但他们从未结婚。

卡丹将生产高级时装系列所需的天价开支视为一项投资。即使这些高级定制时装售价高昂,却仍不足以覆盖其手工制作的成本,但他的高定时装秀在媒体上获得了相当大的曝光度,也带动了他的品牌中那些价格较低的物品的销量,例如帽子,皮带和袜子。

随着卡丹的声名鹊起,他投资的房产也一路飙升。长期以来,卡丹和妹妹住在巴黎爱丽舍宫总统府对面宽敞的公寓里,但他们的生活如僧侣般简朴。一些时尚界人士看到他买下附近这么多顶级不动产,纷纷打趣说卡丹可能要发动一场政变。

除了女装和男装精品店外,卡丹还拥有一家儿童用品店、一家家具店和位于巴黎市中心的卡丹艺术中心(Espace Cardin)。卡丹艺术中心是一座宽敞的礼堂,设计师可以在这里举办时装表演、戏剧、芭蕾和其他文化活动。

除了时装以外,卡丹还涉足香水、化妆品、瓷器、巧克力等领域,并投资了法国南部的度假胜地和马克西姆酒吧(Maxim's),人们经常能看到他在这家酒吧吃午饭。

20世纪70年代,卡丹进行了大规模的公司扩张,门店数量达到10万多家。

卡丹率先认识到亚洲在时尚行业的重要地位——它既是一个制造业中心,也具有巨大的消费潜力。

他从60年代初开始在日本工作,并于1979年成为第一位在中国举办时装秀的西方设计师。

1986年,卡丹与苏联当局签订协议,在该国开设展室并销售其在当地生产的服装。

由于没有法定继承人,卡丹在晚年时分解了他的庞大帝国。在2009年,他把几十张在中国的许可证卖给了两家当地公司。

两年后,卡丹告诉《华尔街日报》,愿意以14亿美元的价格出售自己的整个公司,当时该公司拥有大约500-600张许可证。(财富中文网)

编译:陈怡轩 陈聪聪 冯雨涵

Pierre Cardin, the French designer whose famous name embossed everything from wristwatches to bedsheets after his iconic Space Age styles shot him into the fashion stratosphere in the 1960s, has died, the French Academy of Fine Arts said Tuesday. He was 98.

A licensing maverick, Cardin's name went on thousands of products and in the brand's heyday in the 1970s and '80s, while goods bearing his fancy cursive signature were sold at some 100,000 outlets worldwide.

That number dwindled dramatically in later years, as his products were increasingly regarded as cheaply made and his clothing — which, decades later, remained virtually unchanged from its 60s-era styles — felt almost laughably dated.

A savvy businessman, Cardin used the fabulous wealth that was the fruit of his empire to snap up top-notch properties in Paris, including the Belle Epoque restaurant Maxim's, which he also frequented.

The Fine Arts Academy announced his death in a tweet Tuesday. He had been among its illustrious members since 1992. The academy did not give a cause of death or say where or when he had died.

Along with fellow Frenchman Andre Courreges and Spain's Paco Rabanne, two other Paris-based designers known for their Space Age styles, Cardin revolutionized fashion starting in the early 1950s.

At a time when other Paris labels were obsessed with flattering the female form, Cardin's designs cast the wearer as a sort of glorified hanger, there to showcase the clothes' sharp shapes and graphic patterns. Destined neither for pragmatists nor for wallflowers, his designs were all about making a big entrance — sometimes very literally.

Gowns and bodysuits in fluorescent spandex were fitted with plastic hoops that stood away from the body at the waist, elbows, wrists and knees. Cardin bubble dresses and capes enveloped their wearers in oversized spheres of fabric. Toques were shaped like flying saucers; bucket hats sheathed models' entire heads, with cutout windshields at the eyes.

"Fashion is always ridiculous, seen from before or after. But in the moment, it's marvelous," Cardin said in a 1970 interview with French television.

Cardin was born on July 7, 1922, in a small town near Venice, Italy, to a modest, working-class family. When he was a child, the family moved to Saint Etienne in central France, where Cardin was schooled and became an apprentice to a tailor at age 14.

Cardin would later embrace his status as a self-made man, saying in the same 1970 interview that going it alone "makes you see life in a much more real way and forces you to take decision and to be courageous.

"It's much more difficult to enter a dark woods alone than when you already know the way through," he said.

After moving to Paris, he worked as an assistant in the House of Paquin starting in 1945 and also helped design costumes for the likes of Jean Cocteau. He also was involved in creating the costumes for the director's 1946 hit, "Beauty and the Beast."

After working briefly with Elsa Schiaparelli and Christian Dior, Cardin opened his own house in Paris' tony first district, starting with costumes and masks.

Cardin delivered his first real collection in 1953. Success quickly followed, with the 1954 launch of the celebrated "bubble" dress, which put the label on the map.

Cardin staged his first ready-to-wear show in 1959 at Paris' Printemps department store, a bold initiative that got him temporarily kicked out of the Chambre Syndicale. Cardin's relationship with the organization — the governing body of French fashion — was rocky, and he later left of his own volition to stage shows on his own terms.

Cardin's high-profile relationship with French screen siren Jeanne Moreau, the smoky-voiced blond of "Jules and Jim" fame, also helped boost the brand's profile. Described by both as a "true love," the relationship lasted about five years and they never married.

Cardin saw the astronomical expense of producing haute couture collections as an investment. Even though the clothing's pharaonic prices didn't cover the cost of crafting the made-to-measure garments, the media coverage generated by his couture shows helped sell lower sticker-price items, like hats, belts and hosiery.

As Cardin's fame and fortune spiked, so did his real estate portfolio. He long lived an austere, almost monastic existence with his sister in a sprawling apartment across from the Elysee presidential palace in Paris. He bought up so much top-flight real estate in the neighborhood that fashion insiders joked he could have mounted a coup d'etat.

In addition to his women's and men's clothing boutiques, Cardin opened a children's shop, a furniture store and the Espace Cardin, a sprawling hall in central Paris where the designer would later stage fashion shows, as well as plays, ballets and other cultural events.

Beyond clothes, Cardin put his stamp on perfumes, makeup, porcelain, chocolates, a resort in the south of France and even the velvet-walled watering hole Maxim's — where he could often be seen at lunch.

The 1970s saw a huge Cardin expansion that brought his outlets to more than 100,000, with about as many workers producing under the Cardin label worldwide.

Cardin was in the vanguard of recognizing the importance of Asia to the fashion world, both as a manufacturing hub and for its consumer potential.

He was present in Japan starting in the early '60s and in 1979 became the first Western designer to stage a fashion show in China.

In 1986, he inked a deal with Soviet authorities to open a showroom in the Communist nation to sell clothes locally made under his label.

In his later life, with no heir apparent, Cardin dismantled parts of his vast empire, selling dozens of his Chinese licenses to two local firms in 2009.

Two years later, he told the Wall Street Journal that he'd be willing to sell his entire company — made up at that point of an estimated 500-600 licenses — for $1.4 billion.

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