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2020年,这些美食会大受欢迎

Naomi Tomky 2020年01月01日

这份清单稍微有点不同。它探讨2019年哪些令人惊艳的潮流、菜肴、美食引起了人们的关注,而且在未来几年值得人们给予更多关注。

Tuétano Taqueria加了牛骨髓的墨西哥卷饼Birria,加州圣思多罗市。
图片来源:Naomi Tomky/FORTUNE

大多数关于来年美食流行趋势的年终清单通常会预测人们明年会在杂货店货架上看到什么,而且往往总是聚焦于最新的健康热点(或骗局),或者硅谷计划如何创新方法改变供应链等。

这份清单稍微有点不同。它不是要预测2020年会出现哪些意想不到的东西,而是探讨2019年哪些令人惊艳的潮流、菜肴、美食引起了人们的关注,而且在未来几年值得人们给予更多关注。

YouTube上的老奶奶

对于马斯坦娜玛的追随者而言, 2018年是在悲伤中结束的,这位107岁的印度籍奶奶于2018年12月去世,她生前曾经向2亿观众讲授如何制作美食,2019年同样对身怀美食知识技能的女性展示了热情和敬意,来自墨西哥米却肯州的多娜·安琪拉和她的YouTube频道“从我的农场到你的厨房”(De Mi Rancho a Tu Cocina)在网上大热。

与此同时,“意大利面婆婆”(Pasta Grannies)频道的婆婆们在2019年10月推出了同名烹饪书,其美食事业迈上了新台阶。现在,我们迫不及待地想看到来自埃塞俄比亚、厄瓜多尔和巴巴多斯的美食婆婆们也成为明星。

Most end-of-year lists about food trends tend to predict what we’ll see on grocery store shelves next year, and often lean heavily toward the latest wellness scheme (or scam) or how Silicon Valley plans to find a new way to alter supply chains.

This is a slightly differently list. It’s less about what unexpected thing will jump out in 2020, and more about some amazing movements, dishes, and cuisines that snagged some attention in 2019 and deserve a whole lot more in the coming years.

Grandmas on YouTube

While 2018 ended on a sad note for followers of the Indian woman Mastanamma, as the 107-year-old woman passed away in December having shown more than 200 million viewers how to cook, 2019 maintained that same level of energy and respect for women full of knowledge and culinary skills, with Doña Ángela of the Mexican state of Michoacán and her YouTube channel, De Mi Rancho a Tu Cocina (from my farm to your kitchen) going viral.

Meanwhile, the Italian women of the Pasta Grannies channel took things up a notch in October with the publication of their eponymous cookbook. Now we can’t wait to see our Ethiopian, Ecuadoran, and Bajan breakout culinary grandmas becoming stars, too.

萨曼莎·福尔,肯塔基州莱克星顿市主营斯里兰卡美食的Tuk Tuk餐厅(Tuk Tuk Sri Lankan Bites)的老板兼主厨。  图片来源:Clay Williams

斯里兰卡美食

萨曼莎·福尔曾经是餐厅网站设计师,但现在她的主业是烹饪而不是编程——而且她带有肯塔基风格的斯里兰卡菜肴在全国掀起了一阵热潮。一开始,她在肯塔基州莱克星顿的一些酒吧里开快闪店——斯里兰卡美食Tuk Tuk餐厅,与大家分享她的家乡传统菜肴——而显然,这种美食很对这个国家的胃口。2019年,她的烤咖喱番茄派登上了《美食与美酒》杂志的封面,《好胃口》则深入介绍了她的背景。

西雅图还开了一家名为卢比的斯里兰卡酒吧。2020年,我们想拥有更多的斯里兰卡美食,也希望能在知名美食杂志封面上看到更多生机勃勃的创业公司。

墨西哥肉卷饼Birria

墨西哥北部的birria(一种辣肉汤)是用牛肉做的。在提华纳,人们通常会把birria放进墨西哥玉米卷里,把圆玉米饼在鲜红的汤里泡一包,再裹上炖肉。

Birria在2019年红爆全美,去年2月,帕特丽夏·埃斯卡西加为洛杉矶Teddy’s Red Tacos写了篇美食评鉴,为这场粉丝盛宴接开了序幕。普莉希拉·库列尔在圣地亚哥郊外圣思多罗开的Tuetano Taqueria餐厅一整年都备受关注,广受好评;西雅图的Birrieria Tijuana在多地都开了分店;664 TJ Birrieria开到了拉斯维加斯大道上。

最后,《纽约时报》的皮特·威尔斯带来了点睛之笔,给位于纽约皇后区的餐车Birria-Landia打了两颗星。等到大家都吃过原始的做法,2020年人们应该会热议许多餐厅采用油炸玉米粉饼制作的混合版本:油炸birria(quesabirria)。

Sri Lankan cuisine

Samantha Fore used to design websites for restaurants, but now she’s doing more cooking than coding—and making national waves thanks to her Sri Lankan food with a Kentucky edge. Based in Lexington, Ky., Fore began Tuk Tuk Sri Lankan Bites as a pop-up in local bars to share her culinary heritage—which apparently the country is quite hungry for. 2019, her roasted curry tomato pie graced the cover of Food & Wine, and Bon Appétit went deep into her background.

Seattle also saw the opening of a Sri Lankan bar called Rupee. 2020, we want more Sri Lankan food, but maybe also more scrappy startups on the cover of major food magazines.

Birria tacos

The northern Mexican version of birria (a spicy, meaty soup) is made with beef. And in Tijuana, that’s usually slipped into tacos, with the tortillas dragged through the bright-red soup before wrapping the stewed meat.

2019, birria tacos exploded across the border, as Patricia Escárcega kicked off the fan-fest with a review of Teddy’s Red Tacos in Los Angeles in February. Priscilla Curiel’s Tuétano Taqueria in San Ysidro, outside San Diego, drew acclaim throughout the year; Seattle’s Birrieria Tijuana expanded to multiple locations; and 664 TJ Birrieria opened on the Las Vegas Strip.

Finally, Pete Wells delivered the crowning touch, handing two stars from the New York Times to Birria-Landia, a food truck in Queens, N.Y. Once everyone’s tried the original, we’ll spend 2020 talking about the hybrid quesadilla version many places serve: the quesabirria.

Zapapizza的Taquito比萨,俄勒冈波特兰。 图片来源:Naomi Tomky/FORTUNE

非传统比萨饼配料

在Clock-Out Lounge的窗口里提供早午餐的西雅图Breezy Town Pizza比萨从百吉饼中获得灵感,创造了“应有尽有”比萨(说起来,所有的“应有尽有”都是一种潮流,热度也可能会遇冷)。把芝士、洋葱、熏鲑鱼、奶油芝士、刺山柑花蕾还有各种香料都放在厚厚的比萨饼皮上,让比萨看起来就像百吉饼一样。

在俄勒冈州的波特兰,Zapapizza将墨西哥经典食物与比萨结合在一起,做出了表面是墨西哥taquito卷和chilaquiles饼的比萨——这两种比萨结合得非常完美,与Breezy Town的比萨非常相似。在圣保罗,来自《顶级大厨》的参赛者贾斯汀·萨瑟兰和他的合作伙伴合开的The Fitz店供应各种各样的馅饼,代表不同的城市,有有趣的,也有古怪的——萨凡纳比萨里有海鲜锅,上面还浇有欧贝奶油。如果人们对比萨饼皮投以同样多的思考、关注和创造力时,这种潮流就棒极了。只要人们不滥用比萨自由的特权,我们就会想要更多。 (财富中文网)

译者:Agatha

Unorthodox pizza toppings

Serving brunch from a window inside the Clock-Out Lounge, Seattle’s Breezy Town Pizza took inspiration from the bagel and created the “Everything” pizza (speaking of which, the “Everything” everything is a trend that can probably cool it). Cheese, onions, lox, cream cheese, capers, and a sprinkling of everything spice married the pizza and the bagel on a thick pan crust.

In Portland, Ore., Zapapizza combined Mexican classics with pizza, serving up taquito-topped slices and chilaquiles pies—which work remarkably well on a style of pie similar to Breezy Town’s. In St. Paul, The Fitz from Top Chef contestant Justin Sutherland and partners offered a variety of pies representing various cities and ranging from intriguing to downright odd—the Savannah has the better part of a seafood boil with Old Bay cream poured on top to boot. When as much thought and care is applied to the crust as the creativity, this trend rocks. As long as people don’t abuse the privilege of pizza freedom, we’re left wanting more.

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