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2018年来美国,可以到这几家饭馆吃大餐

彭博社 2018年01月22日

美国人在2018年的肉类消费量将创历史新高,这几家餐厅的肉菜最值得品尝。

如果你是最新美食预测的追随者,你会发现,植物性食品在2018年将大行其道。

然而,彭博社称,美国人在2018年的肉类消费量将创历史新高:其红肉和禽类肉品人均消费量将达到222.2磅(100多公斤)。肉类的价格十分便宜(主要原因在于牲畜饲养量的增加),而且高蛋白饮食依然十分受欢迎。

带有餐厅的高级肉食品商店的数量也将创历史新高,呈现出翻倍增长的态势。就全美而言,擅长烹饪肉类的大厨将充斥于店面,从而满足人们对熟成肉、特色香肠和熏制肉品的需求。这些店面将提供牧场放养、人道屠宰的牛肉、猪肉、羊肉和鸡肉,以及山羊肉、鹿肉和猎禽等并不常见的肉类。

康涅狄格州的烤肋排,上西区的纯天然牛肉,奥斯丁提供牲畜各部位肉品的肉铺,这些都是2018年食肉者们的最佳去处。

康涅狄格州米斯蒂克Grass & Bone

在人们的想象中,海滨城市米斯蒂克是以吃鱼为主,可能还有比萨。然而去年夏天,丹尼尔·梅瑟和詹姆士·维勒将Tim Horton的甜甜圈街边小店变成了一家餐馆,提供 Grandpa Reuben(用自制的熏牛肉制作)和古铜色的大蒜酱烤鸡。这一店面最引人注目的莫过于其冷藏箱,里面装有风干时间长达90天(有时候更长)的熟成肉品。梅瑟说:“我们不希望成为一家名不副实的肉品店。我们希望人们来这后会说,‘我想要一条2英寸厚的熟成肋眼肉来做晚餐。’”

纽约市White Gold Butchers

在曼哈顿上西区,这家用白砖装饰的店面呈现出一股老派的肉店气息。店里摆放着数十种纯天然、牧场放养的产品,包括顶级牛脊肉、带骨纽约牛排、髓骨、自制热狗以及肉店店主艾丽卡·纳卡姆拉、乔斯林·格斯特和艾普利·布鲁姆菲尔德制作的波兰熏肠。用餐者可在早餐鸡蛋三明治中添加香肠、火腿、熏肉、熏牛肉或所有肉品。在晚餐时段,店里还会提供松脆的猪头肉。

芝加哥Publican Quality Meats

这家备受欢迎的猪肉和牡蛎餐厅Publican座落于芝加哥具有传奇色彩的肉类加工区。PQM由大厨保罗·卡汉执掌,其中设有一个餐厅,专门提供熟食品:腌肉、砂锅类、肉冻、鸭腿和熟肉酱。厚厚的Tom’s Silver Medal特大号三明治塞满了意大利腌肉、猪后腿肉、火腿、波萝伏洛干酪和腌辣椒。(这里是芝加哥。)肉店还销售带骨肉,有肋眼、腰肉和前腰脊,每一种肉的平均风干熟成时长都达到了60天。

洛杉矶Gwen Butcher Shop and Restaurant

大厨赛提斯·斯通为肉食爱好者提供了一个绝佳的去处。这家木柴烤肉店提供大量的食材供食客们选择,例如短肋排、羊小腿和风干熟成前腰肉。最贵的肉品莫过于澳大利亚Blackmore和牛:42盎司的带骨肋眼肉价格高达390美元。店主安德鲁·萨顿说:“Blackmore和牛可能是在日本海外饲养的品质最好的牛肉,只有少数肉店有售。”

加州Belcampo

Belcampo创始人安雅·费纳尔德是牲畜人道饲养运动的领袖,在北加州饲养了2500头牛。她将其贩卖给Belcampo在全美各地的分店,从洛杉矶市中心一直到帕拉奥托。这家混合肉店除了出售牛肉之外还贩卖自由放养的鸡肉和猪肉。餐馆主营汉堡包,包括100天风干熟成的汉堡包。该餐馆将于3月在奥克兰开设新分店,其餐厅将主打曼哈顿烧烤,并提供烧烤比特酒和牛肉干配菜。对于那些充满创意的自助者来说,为期两天的Belcampo肉品营(在沙斯塔山脚附近举行)将为其介绍屠宰和牛肉烹饪技巧。

加州雷耶斯角车站Marin Sun农场

这个位于马林郡的近海农场因其一流的食材以及精选的当地草饲猪、鸡、羔羊、山羊和牛而闻名。Point Reyes餐馆提供各种各样的肋排配油炸土豆条(菲力牛排、羊腰肉和猪腰排)以及异常美味的汉堡包(牛肉、羔羊肉或山羊肉),同时还有多种当地红酒和啤酒可供选择。Marin Sun农场在奥克兰也设有一家肉店。

奥斯丁Dai Due

创始人杰西·格里菲斯是肉店界的英雄人物。自2006年开设Dai Due以来,格里菲斯一直在销售来自于德州农场的动物各部位肉品。餐馆前的肉品柜里会不时地陈列烟熏鹿肉肠、猪腰肉和波兰熏肠。餐馆里的百货摊位摆放着莎莎酱、橄榄油和其他当地制作的产品。餐馆还提供猎杀的野味,例如野猪肉汉堡,同时也提供用智利蜂蜜烤制的大片牛排。另一个难得一见的特色是用提炼的牛油脂肪所做的牛脂咖啡。

奥斯丁Salt & Time

奥斯丁是一个幸运之城,它拥有两家必去的肉品店,足以让人们大快朵颐。这家店有一个响亮的口号:“那些加盐并耐心等待的人将尽享美味。”每一个餐馆都希望唤起人们对传统熟食店的记忆:Salt & Time的肉品柜给人一种饱经沧桑的感觉,里面陈列着种类丰富的当地产红肉,例如肩肉、胸肉和牛肩牛排,以及大量精选的香肠,包括新鲜的口利左香肠、德式碎肉香肠和羊肉肠。在粗糙的木桌上,你可以品尝肉店的熟肉沙拉,肉饼三明治或大红肠总会三明治。(财富中文网)

译者:冯丰

审校:夏林

 

If you’re following the latest food forecasts, you’ll know that plant-based diets will be huge in 2018.

Americans, however, will consume a record amount of meat in 2018: an average of 222.2 pounds of red meat and poultry per person, according to Bloomberg. Meat is cheap (especially because producers are raising more animals), and high-protein diets remain popular.

Also at a new high are the number of superior butcher shops that double as restaurants. Across the country, meat-oriented chefs are fronting places that cater to the demand for aged cuts, expertly made sausages, and cured meats. These spots offer pasture-raised, humanely treated beef, pork, lamb, and chicken, as well as less common choices such as goat, venison, and game birds.

Rib roasts in Connecticut, all-natural beef on the Upper West Side, a whole-animal butchery in Austin—these are among the places to go for meat in 2018.

Grass & Bone, Mystic, Conn.

You’d expect the coastal town of Mystic to be all about fish—and perhaps pizza. Yet last summer, Daniel Meiser and James Weiner transformed a Tim Horton’s doughnut outpost into a cafe with offerings such as the Grandpa Reuben (made with house-made pastrami) and bronzed rotisserie chicken with garlic mayo. The focal point of the space is a refrigerated case filled with cuts of meat dry-aged up to 90 days and sometimes more. “We didn’t want to do a fake butcher program,” Meiser says. “We want people to come here and say, ‘I want a 2-inch-thick aged rib-eye to make for dinner.’”

White Gold Butchers, New York City

On Manhattan’s Upper West Side, this white-tiled space evokes an old-school butcher shop. There are dozens of all-natural, pasture-raised offerings including top sirloin, bone-in New York strip steaks, marrow bones, house-made hot dogs, and smoked kielbasa from butcher-owners Erika Nakamura, Jocelyn Guest, and April Bloomfield. Diners can add sausage, ham, bacon, pastrami, or all of them, to the breakfast egg sandwich. For dinner, there’s crispy pig head.

Publican Quality Meats, Chicago

Chicago’s legendary meatpacking district is the setting for this outpost of the popular pork and oysters restaurant, Publican. Headed by chef Paul Kahan, PQM includes a cafe that specializes in charcuterie: salumi, pâtés, terrines, confit, and rillettes. Tom’s Silver Medal sandwich is piled high with spicy capicola, lonza cotto, ham, provolone, and pickled peppers on a hoagie. (It’s Chicago.) The shop also sells bone-in cuts—rib-eye, porterhouse, strip—each dry-aged for an average of 60 days.

Gwen Butcher Shop and Restaurant, Los Angeles

Chef Curtis Stone has created a premium destination for carnivores. There’s a wide selection of ingredients to cook in the wood-burning asador, such as short ribs, lamb shanks, and dry-aged short loin. The priciest cuts are the Australian Blackmore Wagyu; the 42-ounce bone-in rib-eye goes for $390. “Blackmore Wagyu is probably the best beef raised outside Japan, and only a handful of other butcher shops carry it,” says butcher Andrew Sutton.

Belcampo, California

Belcampo founder Anya Fernald, a leader in the humanely raised animal movement, raises her 2,500 cows in Northern California. She then sources them to Belcampo locations around the state, from downtown Los Angeles to Palo Alto. The hybrid butcher shop carries beef alongside free-range poultry and pork. The restaurants specialize in burgers, including 100-day dry-aged patties. The newest location, opening in March, will be Belcampo Oakland, where the bar will feature the BBQ Manhattan, with barbecue bitters and beef jerky garnish. For inspired do-it-yourselfers, Belcampo’s meat camp is a two-day experience that teaches the craft of butchery and beef cooking near the base of Mt. Shasta.

Marin Sun Farms, Point Reyes Station, Calif.

This farm off the coast in Marin County is known for its primo ingredients and outstanding selection of grass-fed, locally raised pork, chicken, lamb, goat, and beef. The Point Reyes restaurant offers a variety of steak frites (filet mignon, goat loin, and pork loin chop) and terrific burgers (beef, lamb, or goat). There’s also a list of local wines and beers. Marin Sun Farms has a butcher shop in Oakland, too.

Dai Due, Austin

Founder Jesse Griffiths is a hero in the world of butchery. Since he opened Dai Due in 2006, Griffiths has been butchering whole animals from ranches around Texas. At the front of the restaurant is a butcher case that might include smoked venison sausages, pork loin, and kielbasa. The grocery section carries salsa, olive oil, and other locally made products. The restaurant has an affinity for game with dishes such as wild boar burgers, but there’s also grilled giant beef rib with chile honey. Another unlikely specialty is tallow coffee, made with rendered beef fat.

Salt & Time, Austin

Austin is lucky enough to have two destination butcher shops where you can also eat exceedingly well. The tag line for this spot is “Good things come to those who add salt and wait.” Every place wants to evoke traditional butcher shops: Salt & Time’s meat counter truly feels as if it’s decades-old, with rich red cuts of local meat, such as chuck roast, brisket, and flat iron steaks, and a vast selection of sausages, including fresh chorizo, bratwurst, and lamb merguez. At the rustic wooden tables, you can snack on a butcher’s salad stocked with deli meats, a meatloaf sandwich, or a bologna club sandwich.

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