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零售商开始设立“中性”玩具售卖区

零售商开始设立“中性”玩具售卖区

《财富》编辑部 2021年11月27日
卡车不会只是男童区的专属玩具,而玩偶也不会只是女童区的专享。

假日购物季已经到了。无论是上实体店,还是在网上购物,那些购物清单基本空空如也的父母必然会看到,一些公司正在全力以赴地上架不分男女的服饰和玩具。然而,这一改变背后的原因是什么呢?

这个话题在10月份引发了《财富》杂志高级主编柯问思的注意,当时加州通过了要求大型零售商设立中性玩具售卖区的法律。作为《财富》Reinvent播客联合主持人,柯问思说:“因此最终,卡车不会只是男童区的专属玩具,而玩偶也不会只是女童区的专享。”

柯问思还表示,她对于这个话题可谓是感同身受。她说:“我有一个快两岁的女儿,我们对于性别固化特别在意,而且对于她玩的玩具类型也是毫不在意。我女儿对卡车和轿车的喜爱程度不亚于玩偶。然而,经常令我感到惊讶的是,当我给她穿上蓝色外套或戴上蓝色帽子时,人们会以为她是一个男孩。你确实会有一种与这些社会规范做斗争的感觉,而且这些规范基本无法动摇。”

长期以来,粉色一直都是美泰(Mattel)标志性芭比品牌最中意的颜色,但这一点正在发生变化。一个名为Creatable World的新系列玩偶便主打中性服饰和颜色,并拥有更多的肤色和发型。

这些变化背后的商业逻辑是什么?《财富》高级主编、Reinvent播客联合主持人葛继甫说:“零售商与消费品制造商所从事的工作就是感知社会现状和趋势。我对他们目前所做的事情及其效果如何十分感兴趣。”

罗布·加勒特·史密斯担任零售高管已有30年的时间,曾供职于耐克、梅西百货(Macy's)和李维斯(Levi Strauss)等多个品牌。2018年,他成立了无性别差异店面和社区The Phluid Project。

史密斯说:“我与大企业交谈的越多,他们就越意识到包容性将成为未来的一部分,而且也是长期维系其业务可持续性的一种方式。”

在《财富》这期Reinvent播客中,史密斯与柯问思和葛继甫探讨了中性化产品和零售的未来,这是一档教人们如何在一个颠倒的世界中通过努力拼搏发展壮大的播客节目。参与这期播客的嘉宾还有美泰芭比娃娃和时尚娃娃高级副总裁兼全球设计主管金·卡尔蒙、NPD集团美国玩具业务副总裁兼行业顾问朱莉·莱纳特,以及A&F(Abercrombie & Fitch)高级副总裁兼GH(Gilly Hicks)品牌总经理金柏莉·多尔德。(财富中文网)

译者:冯丰

审校:夏林

假日购物季已经到了。无论是上实体店,还是在网上购物,那些购物清单基本空空如也的父母必然会看到,一些公司正在全力以赴地上架不分男女的服饰和玩具。然而,这一改变背后的原因是什么呢?

这个话题在10月份引发了《财富》杂志高级主编柯问思的注意,当时加州通过了要求大型零售商设立中性玩具售卖区的法律。作为《财富》Reinvent播客联合主持人,柯问思说:“因此最终,卡车不会只是男童区的专属玩具,而玩偶也不会只是女童区的专享。”

柯问思还表示,她对于这个话题可谓是感同身受。她说:“我有一个快两岁的女儿,我们对于性别固化特别在意,而且对于她玩的玩具类型也是毫不在意。我女儿对卡车和轿车的喜爱程度不亚于玩偶。然而,经常令我感到惊讶的是,当我给她穿上蓝色外套或戴上蓝色帽子时,人们会以为她是一个男孩。你确实会有一种与这些社会规范做斗争的感觉,而且这些规范基本无法动摇。”

长期以来,粉色一直都是美泰(Mattel)标志性芭比品牌最中意的颜色,但这一点正在发生变化。一个名为Creatable World的新系列玩偶便主打中性服饰和颜色,并拥有更多的肤色和发型。

这些变化背后的商业逻辑是什么?《财富》高级主编、Reinvent播客联合主持人葛继甫说:“零售商与消费品制造商所从事的工作就是感知社会现状和趋势。我对他们目前所做的事情及其效果如何十分感兴趣。”

罗布·加勒特·史密斯担任零售高管已有30年的时间,曾供职于耐克、梅西百货(Macy's)和李维斯(Levi Strauss)等多个品牌。2018年,他成立了无性别差异店面和社区The Phluid Project。

史密斯说:“我与大企业交谈的越多,他们就越意识到包容性将成为未来的一部分,而且也是长期维系其业务可持续性的一种方式。”

在《财富》这期Reinvent播客中,史密斯与柯问思和葛继甫探讨了中性化产品和零售的未来,这是一档教人们如何在一个颠倒的世界中通过努力拼搏发展壮大的播客节目。参与这期播客的嘉宾还有美泰芭比娃娃和时尚娃娃高级副总裁兼全球设计主管金·卡尔蒙、NPD集团美国玩具业务副总裁兼行业顾问朱莉·莱纳特,以及A&F(Abercrombie & Fitch)高级副总裁兼GH(Gilly Hicks)品牌总经理金柏莉·多尔德。(财富中文网)

译者:冯丰

审校:夏林

The holiday shopping season has arrived. While out in stores or, of course, shopping online, parents, aunts, uncles, and anybody else who has littles on their list are sure to see that some companies are going all-in on gender-inclusive clothing and toys. But what's the motivation behind this shift?

The topic caught Fortune senior editor Beth Kowitt's attention in October, when California passed a law that would require large retailers to have gender-neutral toy sections. "So essentially," says Kowitt, cohost of Fortune's Reinvent podcast, "you will no longer just find trucks in the boys' section and dolls in the girls' section."

Kowitt adds that the topic is also a personal one for her: "I have an almost two-year-old daughter," she says. "We've tried to be really conscious of gender stereotypes and to be agnostic when it comes to the type of toys she plays with. She loves her trucks and cars just as much as she loves her baby doll. But it's amazing to me how often, when I put her in a blue coat or a blue hat, that people think she's a boy. You really do feel like you're fighting against these societal norms that are just so hard to shake."

Pink has long been the color most attached to Mattel's iconic Barbie brand. But that's changing. A new line of the dolls, Creatable World, features gender-neutral clothing and colors, as well as more skin tones and hairstyles.

As for the business logic behind these changes? "Retailers and manufacturers of consumer goods are in the business of sensing what the society is doing and where it's moving," says Geoff Colvin, Fortune senior editor and cohost of Reinvent. "I'm interested to learn what they're doing and how well it's working."

Rob Garrett Smith spent 30 years as a retail executive at brands including Nike, Macy's, and Levi Strauss. In 2018, he founded The Phluid Project, a gender-free store and community.

"The more I speak to big businesses, they realize that being inclusive is being part of the future and is the way that their business will be sustainable in the long run," Smith says.

Smith joins Kowitt and Colvin on this episode of Fortune's Reinvent, a podcast about fighting to thrive in a world turned upside-down, to discuss gender-neutral products and the future of retail. Also on the show are Kim Culmone, SVP and global head of design for Barbie and fashion dolls at Mattel; Juli Lennett, VP and industry advisor for The NPD Group's U.S. toys division; and Kimberly Dolder, SVP and general manager of Gilly Hicks at Abercrombie & Fitch. Listen to the full episode below.

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