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从候选人到总统,拜登的着装发生了哪些变化?

从候选人到总统,拜登的着装发生了哪些变化?

葛继甫(Geoff Colvin) 2021-01-22
着装是一种语言,拜登和他的智囊团在这方面相当熟练。

不出所料,在乔•拜登的总统就职典礼上,女性的着装吸引了很多关注。出席典礼的新任副总统贺锦丽(Kamala Harris)、前第一夫人米歇尔•奥巴马、前国务卿希拉里•克林顿皆着一席紫色,其中必有涵义:可以肯定的是,紫色象征着团结,把共和党的红色和民主党的蓝色混合,紫色是最终的合成色;此外,紫色是妇女参政论者的标志色,贺锦丽身着的紫色还有向雪莉•奇泽姆致敬之意——奇泽姆是美国历史上第一位当选国会议员,并宣布竞选总统的黑人女性,紫色是她的钟爱之色。

但是,典礼的主角——拜登的着装似乎被遗忘在了角落。不过这也说得通,因为那只是一套100%符合标准的总统装束。但实际上,从21个月前拜登宣布参选以来,他的着装就一直在传递着信息,反映着他的战略思维和个人自律。拜登的着装历程,能够分为三个阶段。

2020年9月30日,美国宾夕法尼亚州新亚历山德里亚,民主党总统候选人、美国前副总统乔•拜登步入大厅,向工会成员发表讲话。图片来源:Roberto Schmidt—AFP/Getty Images

候选人时期的拜登,似乎就是一个来自斯克兰顿的“普通小伙子”——但话说回来,其实也没有那么普通。他遵循着管理咨询行业长期以来的着装要求:向客户着装看齐,但要更高级一点点。除了参加电视辩论和民主党全国代表大会期间,拜登几乎从不穿西装、打领带,但也不穿牛仔裤和运动鞋。在镜头前,拜登的着装通常是一件深蓝色夹克(一般是运动夹克,但没有花哨的黄铜纽扣)、不配套的裤子,和一件开领的蓝色或条纹衬衫。传递出的信息是“严肃,重要,但不古板”,拜登本人也坚守着这些关键词。

2021年1月8日,美国特拉华州威尔明顿,当选总统拜登在女王剧院发表讲话,宣布他经济和就业团队的关键提名人名单。图片来源:Jim Watson—AFP/Getty Images

当选总统之后的拜登,在2020年11月7日美联社(Associated Press)宣布他胜选之后突然出现在公众视线中。之后在公共场合出席时,拜登很少不打领带,或穿着除了深色西装以外的衣服。意图很明确——某些人可能会质疑选举结果,但请搞清楚,我就是下一任总统。

但此时,拜登还没有正式登上总统席位,他的着装也与这一过渡身份相符,并不会完全体现出“总统风格”:偶尔还会穿带纽扣袖口的蓝色衬衫,穿细条纹西服。他时常会打条纹状的领带,有点“总统风格”的味道了,但比厚重的纯色要差几分庄严感。对服装了如指掌的人还观察到,拜登领带上的条纹走向为右上-左下,这是典型的美式风格,而走向相反的条纹(奥巴马的所有条纹领带皆是如此)则是英式风格。当然,这一点对绝大多数的人来说都太细节了。

美国总统乔•拜登身着深色西装,白色衬衫配法式袖口,系一条纯蓝色领带。图片来源:Jim Watson—AFP/Getty Images

就任总统后的拜登,才在着装上完全走向“总统风格”:纯深色西装,配法式袖口的白衬衫,带徽章的袖口链扣,“民主党蓝”领带,擦得锃亮的黑色鞋子。透露出的信息很明确:放轻松,我的外表、举止都将符合美国民众对总统的期望。

着装是一种语言,拜登和他的智囊团在这方面相当熟练。在着装方面,华盛顿的女性政客一定会继续吸引着最多的关注,但也请看一眼总统的穿着打扮吧——无论西装颜色如何、衬衫是何种样式、打领带与否,它们都在有意地告诉我们一些信息。(财富中文网)

编译:杨二一

不出所料,在乔•拜登的总统就职典礼上,女性的着装吸引了很多关注。出席典礼的新任副总统贺锦丽(Kamala Harris)、前第一夫人米歇尔•奥巴马、前国务卿希拉里•克林顿皆着一席紫色,其中必有涵义:可以肯定的是,紫色象征着团结,把共和党的红色和民主党的蓝色混合,紫色是最终的合成色;此外,紫色是妇女参政论者的标志色,贺锦丽身着的紫色还有向雪莉•奇泽姆致敬之意——奇泽姆是美国历史上第一位当选国会议员,并宣布竞选总统的黑人女性,紫色是她的钟爱之色。

但是,典礼的主角——拜登的着装似乎被遗忘在了角落。不过这也说得通,因为那只是一套100%符合标准的总统装束。但实际上,从21个月前拜登宣布参选以来,他的着装就一直在传递着信息,反映着他的战略思维和个人自律。拜登的着装历程,能够分为三个阶段。

候选人时期的拜登,似乎就是一个来自斯克兰顿的“普通小伙子”——但话说回来,其实也没有那么普通。他遵循着管理咨询行业长期以来的着装要求:向客户着装看齐,但要更高级一点点。除了参加电视辩论和民主党全国代表大会期间,拜登几乎从不穿西装、打领带,但也不穿牛仔裤和运动鞋。在镜头前,拜登的着装通常是一件深蓝色夹克(一般是运动夹克,但没有花哨的黄铜纽扣)、不配套的裤子,和一件开领的蓝色或条纹衬衫。传递出的信息是“严肃,重要,但不古板”,拜登本人也坚守着这些关键词。

当选总统之后的拜登,在2020年11月7日美联社(Associated Press)宣布他胜选之后突然出现在公众视线中。之后在公共场合出席时,拜登很少不打领带,或穿着除了深色西装以外的衣服。意图很明确——某些人可能会质疑选举结果,但请搞清楚,我就是下一任总统。

但此时,拜登还没有正式登上总统席位,他的着装也与这一过渡身份相符,并不会完全体现出“总统风格”:偶尔还会穿带纽扣袖口的蓝色衬衫,穿细条纹西服。他时常会打条纹状的领带,有点“总统风格”的味道了,但比厚重的纯色要差几分庄严感。对服装了如指掌的人还观察到,拜登领带上的条纹走向为右上-左下,这是典型的美式风格,而走向相反的条纹(奥巴马的所有条纹领带皆是如此)则是英式风格。当然,这一点对绝大多数的人来说都太细节了。

就任总统后的拜登,才在着装上完全走向“总统风格”:纯深色西装,配法式袖口的白衬衫,带徽章的袖口链扣,“民主党蓝”领带,擦得锃亮的黑色鞋子。透露出的信息很明确:放轻松,我的外表、举止都将符合美国民众对总统的期望。

着装是一种语言,拜登和他的智囊团在这方面相当熟练。在着装方面,华盛顿的女性政客一定会继续吸引着最多的关注,但也请看一眼总统的穿着打扮吧——无论西装颜色如何、衬衫是何种样式、打领带与否,它们都在有意地告诉我们一些信息。(财富中文网)

编译:杨二一

Women’s attire attracted heavy attention at President Biden’s inauguration, and rightly so. When Kamala Harris, Michelle Obama, and Hillary Clinton all show up wearing purple, it must mean something. The consensus view is that it stood for unity; Republican red + Democrat blue = purple. Also, purple was in the suffragist flag (1908), and Harris’s purple may have been in homage to Shirley Chisholm, the first Black woman elected to Congress and the first to run for President (1972), who favored the color.

Virtually unnoticed—perhaps entirely unnoticed—was Biden’s clothing. That makes sense; it was 100% standard-issue presidential attire. But in fact Biden’s dress has been sending messages since he declared his candidacy 21 months ago. The wardrobe history of the Biden campaign reflects strategic thinking and discipline. It’s divided into three distinct and clearly deliberate phases.

Candidate Biden was regular-guy Joe from Scranton—but then again, not quite regular. He seemed to be following a long-standing practice in the management consulting game: Dress like the clients, but a little better. He almost never wore a suit or tie except on the televised debates and during the Democratic convention, but neither did he wear jeans and sneakers. His go-to uniform was a dark-blue jacket (essentially a blazer, but no brass buttons—too flashy), non-matching trousers, and an open-collared blue or striped shirt. The message was “serious, important, but not stuffy,” and he stayed on message.

President-elect Biden emerged suddenly and strikingly, within hours of the Associated Press declaring him the election’s winner on Nov. 7. From that moment on, he has rarely appeared without a tie or wearing anything other than a dark suit. The intended message was clear: Others may dispute the outcome of the election, but make no mistake, I’m the next President.

Yet, appropriately for his in-between status, his dress didn’t quite go full presidential. His shirts were sometimes blue; they had button cuffs. He occasionally wore a pin-striped suit. His ties were often striped, which is fine for a President, but a step below the gravitas of a solid color. True aficionados noted that the stripes on his ties went from the wearer’s upper right to lower left, which is the American style. Stripes that go the other way —as on virtually all of Barack Obama’s striped ties—are English-style. Too subtle for 99.98% of the population? Probably.

President Biden declared himself President, sartorially, on Inauguration Day. Only then did he go full presidential—solid dark suit, white shirt with French cuffs, cuff links with some kind of crest, solid Democrat-blue tie, fiercely polished black shoes. The message: Relax—I will look and behave the way Americans expect of a President.

Clothing is a language, and Biden or his handlers are fairly fluent in it. Washington’s women will surely continue to get the most attention for their attire, but keep an eye on the President’s clothing. Whatever it may be, it’s intentionally telling us something.

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